Hedi Slimane’s explosive set design leads the way for his androgynous collection
The anticipation was palpable as audience members gathered inside Paris’ Grand Palais to see the A/W 2013 menswear collection by Hedi Slimane. The room darkened and huge speakers on a gigantic spinning structure that resembled a fairground ride began to spin, sending out the guitar riffs of a booming garage rock soundtrack - which, by the way, was recorded exclusively for Saint Laurent by none other than sludgy lo-fi rock wunderkind Ty Segall.
Slimane’s atmospheric set design for the show - made all the more impactful with his unavoidably monster-sized speaker/light carousel - led the way for the androgynous collection that followed. Directly reflecting the spirit of rock ’n’ roll, it was one that was pegged for a younger crowd - unlike that of Slimane’s womenswear collection, which felt more like high luxury and for an audience who were thirty and above. Skinny leather jeans came with thick, baggy jumpers accessorised with animal print scarves. Ripped denim jeans rocked down the runway too, which Slimane populated with boys and girls, and it was often purposefully hard to tell which was which.
Overall the look was very British and incredibly reminiscent of the cool and grungy kids in skinny jeans and suit jackets who hung out at The Good Mixer Pub in Camden around 2004. Watch the video to see the show unfold.