Odessa restaurant review - Kiev, Ukraine
Restaurateur Natalia Ivantsova’s latest offering might be based in Kiev, but everything about it, from name to décor, pays homage to the costal city of Odessa. Originally a fast food restaurant founded by Ivantsova’s mother in 1980, the restaurant was given a makeover by locals Yod Design Lab, who created a modern space filled with naval references - from the dangling rope in the main dining room to the blue oars on the walls. A warm palette of sandstone, blond wood and olive-green fabric brings to mind the Crimean sea, while the open kitchen with two copper tandoors adds a splash of liveliness to the otherwise serene atmosphere.
Chef Yuri Priemsky cooks up a monthly menu that nods to Odessa's cosmopolitan character with sous-vide salmon with Piedmont risotto and asparagus along with simple classics like mashed potatoes with crab. Mixologist Nargis Moskalenko adapts a list of hits from some of the world’s top bars, from Singapore’s Long Bar to the Experimental Cocktail Club in Paris. ‘The Indian Summer’, a gin drink from London’s Zetter Townouse, has already become a crowd favourite.