DakaDaka brings 8,000 years of Georgian tradition to London
A new London restaurant distils Georgian hearth cooking and qvevri wine into a design-driven contemporary dining experience
Georgia is home to one of the world’s oldest food and wine cultures. After 8,000 years, its time in the London spotlight has finally arrived, courtesy of Giorgi Mindiashvili and Mitz Vora. The duo are hospitality powerhouses, having shaped The Hoxton hotels’ evolution at Ennismore before Mindiashvili launched Georgia’s acclaimed Communal Hotel Collection.
‘DakaDaka is about distilling Georgian food and wine into a modern restaurant format,’ explains chef-patron Vora. That means shareable dishes, open-fire cooking, and an approach that values wine as much as food.
Wallpaper* dines at DakaDaka, London
The mood: Georgian folk, contemporary warmth
Katya Samsonadze of Communal Design Studio took inspiration from the Open Air Museum of Ethnography in Tbilisi, which presents folk architecture and craft traditions from across Georgia’s regions, here reinterpreted through a contemporary lens.
‘The intention,’ Samsonadze says, ‘was to create an interior that feels deeply atmospheric, tactile and narrative-driven, yet calm and unforced. We wanted the space to be rooted in craftsmanship, material honesty and emotional warmth, aiming for a sense of timelessness.’
A handmade brass chandelier is positioned above the communal oval table and topped with emerald-toned natural marble sourced from Georgia, while bespoke ceramic plates were designed by Georgian theatre set and costume designer Simoniko Machabeli and crafted by local ceramicist Lali Gadabadze.
The space, Samsonadze notes, ‘is designed to feel intimate, grounded and quietly expressive, inviting guests to experience it slowly rather than all at once.’ Take your time by pulling up a seat at the purple marble counter to watch the chefs at work.
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The food: straight from the hearth
‘DakaDaka is designed to feel welcoming and human,’ Vora says. ‘The focus is on a natural sense of ritual around food and wine.’ That ritual begins with pkhali – zingy balls of minced vegetables and walnuts – ahead of renditions of Georgia’s most famous dishes: hand-folded khinkali soup dumplings made in cast-iron pots in the dark metal open kitchen, and khachapuri filled with Spenwood cheese, melted over the wood-fired hearth. Duck breast mtsvadi with blackcurrant and tarragon comes from the charcoal grill.
‘The interior is designed to mirror the food and wine philosophy: minimal intervention, respect for craft, and clarity of flavour,’ Vora says. Natural wine expert Honey Spencer curates the 100-bottle list celebrating qvevri winemaking, the Georgian tradition of ageing wine underground in clay vessels, whilst cocktails spotlight house-made chacha, the country’s grappa-like brandy.
Don’t wait 8,000 years to try it.
DakaDaka is located at 10 Heddon Street, London W1B 4BX, UK
Ben McCormack is a London-based restaurant journalist with over 25 years’ experience of writing. He has been the restaurant expert for Telegraph Luxury since 2013, for which he was shortlisted in the Restaurant Writer category at the Fortnum & Mason Food and Drink Awards. He is a regular contributor to the Evening Standard, Food and Travel and Decanter. He lives in west London with his partner and lockdown cockapoo.