In Los Angeles, Lielle reimagines fine dining
Four years after relocating to LA, chef Marcus Jernmark unveils his first stateside restaurant, offering an elevated, family-style dining experience
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Michelin-starred Swedish chef Marcus Jernmark, who made his mark at Aquavit in New York, has opened the doors to his first stateside restaurant. Lielle, which takes its name from Jernmark’s daughter, sits in the heart of Beverlywood, right behind the new Cameo Beverly Hills hotel.
Wallpaper* dines at Lielle, Los Angeles
The mood: date night in a wine cave
Designed in partnership with Lovers Unite (Bar Etoile in Melrose Hill), the 42-seat subterranean space is lined with snug wine-toned leather banquettes and custom cherry wood tables – make sure you are dining with someone you don’t mind sitting close to. The vaulted ceilings are lined with cork and vintage Scandinavian lighting, which sets the tone of fine European craftsmanship but with a laid-back, SoCal sensibility and an upbeat mixed soundtrack of global pop hits. Jernmark’s wife, Andrea, also collaborated with Lovers Unite on the design, including handcrafted details showcased in her hand-sewn linens and kintsugi ceramics.
The food: best of California ingredients with a European touch
This is a four-course tasting menu crafted by a Michelin three-star chef. However, don’t expect overly formal service; instead, you can look forward to a relaxed, family-style dining experience. The California Bistronomy menu changes with the seasons, but one consistent highlight is the bread program. According to Chef Jernmark, ‘It’s the programme we have been working on the most.’
The miso sourdough is salted and fermented for 36 hours before being served with fresh butter. Each Monday, the ‘milk man’ delivers the ingredients, and then the kitchen works for two hours to churn and paddle the butter to achieve a creamy consistency. You’ll also find butter featured in an emulsion dip served with fresh radishes, providing a crisp contrast. Other dishes may include an artichoke salad dipped in lemon water before serving, or grilled abalone served over Luna rice from Sacramento, complemented by a fermented mushroom sauce and fried Brussels sprouts topped with Beluga caviar.
For pasta lovers, the spaghetti features hand-cut charred noodles finished in a sauce made with yellow tomatoes and Girl & Dug Farm yuzu zest, topped with Santa Barbara sea urchin.
For dessert, you can enjoy a creation that lies somewhere between a brioche and a bread pudding. This dish is layered with caramelised pumpkin seeds, honeycomb, tea, and sea buckthorn sorbet, and is served alongside ‘No Bad Vibes’ small buns baked with cardamom sugar, cream, Indonesian rum, and black tea.
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Lielle is located at 9575 W Pico Blvd, Los Angeles, CA 90035, United States
Carole Dixon is a prolific lifestyle writer-editor currently based in Los Angeles. As a Wallpaper* contributor since 2004, she covers travel, architecture, art, fashion, food, design, beauty, and culture for the magazine and online, and was formerly the LA City editor for the Wallpaper* City Guides to Los Angeles.