At Bar Etoile, Scandi-chic meets leisurely Los Angeles

If you're gallery hopping in Los Angeles's buzzy Melrose Hill neighbourhood, take a moment between all the blue chip art to pop by Bar Etoile. The new restaurant—a project of Jill Bernheimer (you'll know her from the natural wine shop Domaine LA) along with partner Julian Kurland—offers a delightfully modern take on a classic French bistro that combines 'if-you-know-you-know' art world references with a distinctly Angeleno vibe.

Wallpaper* dines at Bar Etoile, Los Angeles

The mood: Sexy Scandinavian meets French new wave

Designed by creative director Karen Spector and architect Alan Koch of Lovers Unite (the L.A.-based creative team behind Dunsmoor in Glassell Park and Bar Chelou in Pasadena) wanted the space to evoke a French '70s bistro aesthetic without being over-nostalgic, mixed with throwback art world references, like New York's beloved Florent, which combined a serious bar menu, a late-night diner vibe, and plenty of after-hours shenanigans.

The restaurant is oriented around a central horseshoe-shaped zinc bar, which is surrounded by large circular booths in a high gloss pale blue finish that matches the ceiling above, and solid walnut upholstered banquettes. One entire wall showcases more than 40 small handmade ceramic trays featuring trompe l'oeil wine labels by producer-turned-ceramist Anthony Dominici. The ‘Etoile’ mosaic at the entrance is partially inspired by the glass mosaic wall at Los Angeles International Airport's Terminal 6, with the sentiment that ‘going out should also feel like coming home.’

The food: modern French bistro with the best bar bites

Chef Travis Hayden has revived his signature tangy Caesar steak tartare (first created at Rustic Canyon in Santa Monica), which comes piled high on a thick slice of Bub & Grandma’s bread. This dish is a perfect starter while perusing the 200-bottle small-production European wine list. Another way to go is by diving into the buttermilk poached trout rillettes with wafer-thin homemade russet potato chips alongside an ice-cold dirty martini that features an olive brine that's been soaked for three days with tarragon, golden balsamic and citrus.

Other tempting orders include the yams with ice plant, covered in a creamy mimolette cheese and guajillo sabayon pepper sauce, or ricotta dumplings in brodo with broccolini.

Craving a classic? The steak frites is a can't-miss. The cut of prime hangar steak is salted and cooked with butter, garlic, and thyme, then served with a house bordelaise sauce and topped with more Montpellier butter.

Bar Etoile is located at 632 N Western Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90004, United States; baretoile.com