At the new Puro Warsaw Old Town hotel, Polish folklore rethinks Scandi chic

Warsaw hotels tend to be all about the old. The two grand dames, The Hotel Bristol (built in 1901 and now part of Marriott’s Luxury Collection) and The Europejski (built in 1857, now a Raffles hotel), face each other across Krakowskie Przedmieście between rococo churches and the Presidential Palace. How nice, then, that the latest addition to the hotel scene is a new build. Cool and contemporary, Puro Warsaw Old Town (Warszawa Stare Miasto to give it its Polish moniker) channels a pared-back Scandi aesthetic. Free of the weight of Warsaw’s history, it is riding high in this ever-shifting, vibrant capital.

Wallpaper* checks in at: Puro Warszawa Stare Miasto

What’s on your doorstep?

In a word, everything. The hotel is tucked down quiet Canaletta Street, its back looking out onto the neo-classical Grand Theatre, home to the Polish National Ballet. Behind that is the city’s main square, which opens out onto Krakowskie Przedmieście, Warsaw’s grandest avenue, on which stand the Church of the Holy Cross and the Presidential Palace. Shops, bars and restaurants proliferate around here too. Not to be missed is the buzzy Bar Rascal, a popular haunt for lovers of natural wine, of which it offers over 450 labels, many from small, independent, European producers.

Who is behind the design?

The hotel interiors are courtesy of Copenhagen-based design studio GamFratesi. The founders, the Italian-Danish duo, Stine Gam and Enrico Fratesi, are already renowned for their designs, from furniture to lighting, for companies such as Gubi, Louis Poulsen, Bang & Olufsen, Royal Copenhagen and Koyori – many of which are dotted throughout the hotel. It is particularly fitting that a Puro hotel should be the one introducing the Scandinavian pillars of minimalism, functionality and authenticity to Warsaw, as the hotelier at the company’s helm is Norwegian Rune Askevold. Since opening its first property in Wrocław in 2011, the company has grown to include eight hotels across Poland, among them Puro Warsaw, Puro Kazimierz, Puro Gdansk, Puro Łódź and Puro Poznań.

Inside, behind the hotel's unadorned façade, a relaxed informality and calm neutral colour palette immediately banish the stresses of travel. With every detail thought out, the design strikes a timeless note and one of easy comfort. The presence of over 30 brands and artisans from Scandinavia is visible in touches such as the Dinesen wood flooring, the artisanal bricks, lighting from Gubi and other Scandinavian companies, such as Carl Hansen & Son, Eikund and Frederica, Audo Copenhagen, &Tradition, Louis Poulsen and LYFA. Overlayering the custom-designed furniture is a carefully created collection of art by local artists who are already internationally acclaimed, such as Agata Bogacka, Cezary Poniatowski, Cyril Polaczek and Karolina Bielawska. A further Scandinavian nod comes courtesy of a wonderful relief in wood by Ferdinand Evaldssons, which explores the myth of the mermaid, so relevant to both Warsaw and Copenhagen.

The room to book

Drawing on natural light as much as possible, rooms and suites across the hotel's seven floors have a painterly stillness to them, and their minimalism works as a blank canvas – an encouragement to settle in and make yourself at home. Art is woven throughout, with work by Karolina Bielawska in many of the rooms – her architectural paintings are inspired by the neighbouring Grand Theatre and Opera House. There are yoga mats in the cupboards alongside irons, steamers and soft linen robes and slippers. The Executive Suite comes with a private balcony with views over the Grand Theatre. Bathrooms feature travertine stone, with circular, column-like basins cut from one piece under round mirrors, which echo the soft, curved corners of the hotel. The larger suites come with a stand-alone tub, while rooms are shower-only. All are equipped with the Puro group’s bespoke amenities, a boreal blend of natural, essential oils.

Minibar high?

Guests can choose which type of (paid) minibar they want, from the standard option offering soft drinks, nuts and crisps to the maxi bar, which includes Polish beer and mead. Coffee, which in the suites comes courtesy of a Moccamaster, and tea are complimentary and replenished daily, as is water.

Staying for drinks and dinner?

Forming the heart and hub of the hotel, Mund, whose name is a nod to the Scandinavian word for mouth, offers something for everyone. It comprises not just a restaurant, but also a bakery, a wine bar, and a bistro, all with the same welcoming and relaxed vibe that runs throughout the hotel. Later this year, a rooftop bar will complete the whole. Underlining the Scandinavian spirit of the hotel, food here delivers a taste of the Nordics, with a few Polish favourites.

Breakfast is a long and lazy affair here, with dishes that could set you up for the day. Try the omelette with vegan n’duja or the croissant with avocado, chilli honey, Bursztyn cheese and a poached egg. In the bakery, shelves brim with Danish pastries, Tebirkes, cinnamon rolls and the beloved Polish jagodzianka or blueberry bun, when in season. Unique is the Brunost cheesecake, which uses a Norwegian cheese. Behind it, the wine bar, open from 4pm to 1am, is the place to go if you want oysters with pickled dill stems in elderflower vinegar or a Smørrebrød, a traditional Danish open sandwich on dark rye bread, to accompany a glass of Slovenian pét nat, or a Polish kombucha.

The restaurant has a small but enticing menu at lunchtime, at which pride of place goes to the Fiskesuppe, the Norwegian fish soup filled with cod, salmon, prawns, mussels and fresh dill. There is also an excellent beef tartare, with a black garlic mayonnaise and creamy egg yolk. Polish comfort food comes in the shape of potato dumplings with broad beans, chanterelles and mushroom consommé with truffle. At night, there are some classics added, such as all-time favourites like smoked salmon with fennel, Wiener schnitzel with butter sauce, capers and anchovies and grilled beef entrecote with caramelised shallots. Save room for the roasted rye ice cream with rhubarb confiture.

Where to switch off

The well-equipped gym has been designed with love. Rounded travertine stone water stations await behind weight-lifting machines. Treadmills stand on their own in generous curved niches clad with the tiny artisanal bricks that can be found in other parts of the hotel. There is also a dry sauna, a must in a Scandi-centric hotel.

The verdict

Puro Warsaw Old Town is a valuable addition to the city's hotel scene, offering affordable accommodation in clean-lined surroundings. The many Scandinavian elements throughout the building serve not only to spark interest in that part of the world, but also to draw our eyes to the contrasting Polish details, from the art to the wines. While the hotel is a place to kick off your heels and enjoy downtime, what it offers cannot but stimulate cultural curiosity and, without doubt, an appetite.

Puro Warsaw Old Town is located at Canaletta 4, 00-099 Warsaw, Poland.