For a taste of Greece, head to this playful new restaurant in London’s Chelsea

Ten years ago, Pachamama Group disrupted the London dining scene with a series of Peruvian-rooted culinary concepts that quickly gained traction. The opening of Zēphyr in Notting Hill in 2022 marked the team’s first pivot towards a Greek-inspired offering. Now, in a similar vein, Pachamama introduces Bottarga in the heart of Chelsea, occupying the former site of its second London restaurant, Chicama. The concept stems from a series of research trips across the Aegean islands over recent summers, and brings in the fresh, earthy flavours so beloved in the Mediterranean.

Wallpaper* dines at Bottarga, London

The mood: a quirky bistro-style setting

As a sequel to Zēphyr, Pachamama describes Bottarga as its ‘younger and more casual sibling with a homely offering’. The setting leans into a quintessential bistro aesthetic, with wooden floors, wall panels and chairs, and narrow tables dressed in white cloth and illuminated by candlesticks. A series of contemporary paintings by art director Lunara Bramley-Fento – featuring scribbled figures and messages – adds a playful contrast to the nostalgic décor. Meanwhile, crockery has been selected by brand director Yaroslava Malkova from local antique markets. Mixtapes curated by Greek DJ Georgios Kalamotousakis provide the soundtrack.

The food: a taste of the Aegean

Open for lunch and dinner, Bottarga is a collaboration between the group’s founding chef, Adam Rawson, and Greek executive chef Tzoulio Loulai, who has drawn inspiration from the flavours of his childhood. The menu opens with a basket of freshly baked pita, grilled bakehouse sourdough, and crackers – best enjoyed with dips like tzatziki. The mezze selection features hot and cold crowd-pleasers, from saganaki tapioca bites coated in sesame, thyme and honey, to kolokithokeftedes (Greek-style zucchini fritters). A selection of raw plates offers a nod to the site’s Peruvian past while providing a refreshing interlude.

For mains, you get to choose between land and sea, with highlights including the signature Bottarga orzo and UK ex-dairy ribeye on the bone from Txuleta, grilled over charcoal and served with a bone marrow stifado jus. When it comes to dessert, staff will likely steer you towards the chocolate burnt cheesecake, but for me, the orange pie with kumquat and orange cream was the perfect finish to an all-round lush Mediterranean meal.

Bottarga is located at 383 King's Rd, London SW10 0LP; bottarga.london