Now in its third year, Swatch’s partnership with London Collections: Men has evolved into something of a showcase for a growing number of new brands focused on well-priced wristwear. Often looking to the past for inspiration but with clean, contemporary touches and stringent attention to detail, designs from fledgling watch brand names such as Instrmnt and Bravur are focused on aesthetics rather than mechanics.
We nipped into the Designer Showrooms to take a look a this new wave of timekeepers. Here are our highlights...
Pictured: ’Exploded’ Instrmnt watch in tan. Photography: Zac and Zac
Writer: Hannah Silver
Instrmnt: An androgynous design language and a belief that form must always be informed by function sees Glasgow brand Instrmnt focus only on the essentials. ’We see ourselves as very much part of the fashion industry and almost outsiders in horology,’ muses founder Ross Baynham. Photography: Zac and Zac
Instrmnt: Appropriately then, the 02 collection of watches makes the perfect accessory – slim enough to slip under a shirt cuff. Baynham sees them as the modern interpretation of a mid-century dress watch. Further influences, from analog ammeters to Dieter Rams’ minimalism, inspires their utilitarian design. Photography: Zac and Zac
South Lane: ’No other fashion capital in the world has London’s mind-set – developing edgy but still commercially viable brands – and this aligns strongly with South Lane’s vision of bold minimalism,’ says the London brand’s founder and creative director, Filip Bjernebo
South Lane: The brand showcased its Avant watch collection during London Collections: Men. Reflecting East London’s industrial architecture and mass of raw concrete, the plating of each watch is hand-scratched giving every South Lane timepiece a raw, unpolished quirk
Bravur: Stockholm watch brand Bravur has added a luxe feel to Scandinavian minimalism with a host of playful contradictions. The simultaneous use of polished and brushed metal effects nods to classic horological design, while the case and crown are composed of clashing surface finishes. Pictured: the ’BW102’ model
Bravur: The new model (pictured from behind), strips back the non-essentials – the case is lug-free, the bezel thin and the new dial design sports applied numbers in a font from the Guggenheim Verlag suite
DUFA: Bauhaus-infused German watch brand DUFA presented the new watch collections – Gropius 9001, Van Der Rohe Chrono 9002 and Breuer Automatic 9011 (pictured) – at LC:M
DUFA: ’We feel our interpretation of precision German watch manufacturing through the lines of Bauhaus aligns with LC:M’s focus on authentic design,’ says creative director and CEO, Vishal Tolani, underlining the draw of fashion week’s Designer Showrooms for design-led watch brands. Pictured: ’Gropius’
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