Cafe Kowloon dishes up Hong Kong classics, with a twist

london restaurant review — (Image credit: Courtesy of Studio Hahn)

‘From the outset, Cafe Kowloon was shaped by the team’s memories of visiting Hong Kong and the atmosphere of traditional cha chaan teng cafés and neighbourhood restaurants,’ say Emily Potter and Iwan Halstead, founders of Daytrip, a London-based design studio. They speak of creating the interiors at east London’s newest restaurant, the venture of hospitality group 6 of 1, which is also behind Peckham’s Mr Bao and Daddy Bao. ‘They described the spatial intensity of these environments – steam rising from open kitchens, tightly arranged dining rooms, and shared tables organised around lazy Susans. These qualities informed the design, shaping both the material palette and the overall spatial experience.’

The new haunt has opened under the arches of the overground, dimly lit by a red neon light that glows atmospherically against a rainy evening. Those who are regulars around London Fields may recognise the address, in the same building as Wonton Charlie’s, a bustling noodle lunch spot that, come evening, becomes the unofficial waiting room for diners about to be seated at Cafe Kowloon.

Wallpaper* dines at Cafe Kowloon, London

The mood: A London take on an energetic Hong Kong atmosphere

For those seeking an authentic Hong Kong café experience, Cafe Kowloon is a far cry from traditional; however, that is the point. Upon entering, there are two distinct dining areas separated by a large partition. The first area is home to the open kitchen, fluid with movement, steam and fire, with dishes quickly plated and served to diners. Fair warning, if you plan on having a deep conversation, prepare to be distracted and mesmerised by the speed and uniformity of the chef’s intricate skills in the kitchen.

The floor by the open kitchen features deep maroon tiles, contrasting with the large stainless steel countertop. Overhead, repurposed floor gratings are used as storage, providing an intriguing design feature and a nod to Hong Kong café culture, where materials are commonly adapted and reused.

‘Our menu is inspired by modern Hong Kong, so this needed to be reflected in the space as well,’ explain Frank Yeung and Abhinav Malde, founders of 6 of 1. ‘We didn’t want any of our design elements to feel like a cliché or a pastiche of what we’d experienced in Hong Kong, but a space that still felt fitting in east London.’

Alongside the notes provided by the 6 of 1 team, Daytrip created a material palette that draws on the functional language of Hong Kong eateries. The team made informed decisions based on durability and immediacy to define the spatial character.

Deep cherry reds and light greens balance a vibrant yet soothing environment. Glass-reinforced plastic, steel, mosaics and corrugated surfaces add material detail to the slick space. 'Within Cafe Kowloon, dark brown mosaic platforms and timber and leather banquettes introduce warmth and intimacy, while rotating tables support the communal rituals of shared dining,’ say the Daytrip designers. ‘Neon lighting and jade-green industrial grating introduce colour and a lo-fi playfulness, reinforcing the layered and atmospheric identity of the space.’

The food: come hungry and order everything

Upon arrival, enjoy palette-cleansing pickled vegetables while perusing the menu. It is sectioned into two parts, ‘Snacks’, which act as sharing starters, and ‘Sharers’, which are larger-portioned dishes. The serving staff are well-equipped with recommendations. For two, they suggest ordering two snacks and three sharers, with two sides.

To begin, the cucumber salad is spicy and refreshing, and pairs nicely with the sweeter flavour profile of the yun cheong (a traditional Cantonese air-dried sausage made with pork and duck liver) and chilli jam. Curry fish balls are also a Hong Kong staple.

To share, the prawn toast is quickly becoming a favourite. The steamed seabass is presented minimally, but still results in a gasp from the table as it is served whole. Char siu is also another classic dish, barbecued pork with a sweet and savoury glaze and charred edges, paired with mustard leaves and grapefruit, creating a symphony of sweet, tart, and savoury flavours laced with a smoky finish.

Make sure you have room for dessert, such as Hong Kong French Toast. Typically, in Hong Kong, this is deep-fried and stuffed with peanut butter, bathed in a syrupy condensed milk glaze and topped with a hearty slab of butter, and yes, it is sweet; Cafe Kowloon’s take is definitely stripped back on the sweet scale (although still incredibly indulgent), with traditional elements retained at the heart of the dish, but finished with a condensed milk glaze over the top.

Say the 6 of 1 team: ‘Ideally, bring a big group, book one of the booths with a lazy Susan and order most of the menu! Try dishes or ingredients that might be unfamiliar for some people – like beef tendons served two ways, dace dip, yun cheong – alongside more classic favourites like prawn toast and wontons, that we’ve still given our own spin.’ Cafe Kowloon is all about discovery, and the atmosphere is as delicious as its menu.

Cafe Kowloon is located at 392-393 Mentmore Terrace, London E8 3PH, United Kingdom

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Tianna Williams is Wallpaper’s staff writer. When she isn’t writing extensively across varying content pillars, ranging from design and architecture to travel and art, she also helps put together the daily newsletter. She enjoys speaking to emerging artists, designers and architects, writing about gorgeously designed houses and restaurants, and day-dreaming about her next travel destination.