Tom’s Pasta restaurant review: design inspired by creamy tiramisu

(Image credit: Courtesy of House of Dré)

Drawn in by lively chatter and laughs, you can hear the atmosphere radiating from Tom’s Pasta, before the restaurant is even in view. Nestled on the edge of Hackney Downs Studios, the friendly neighbourhood trattoria is known for its simple pasta menu, good wine, and cosy, intimate setting.

Initially, a bike-delivery service which gained popularity during lockdown, founder and chef Tom Haydon opened the brick-and-mortar restaurant in early December 2021. Now, five years later, Tom’s Pasta has unveiled its new interiors by House of Dré, which offers the restaurant’s unpretentious and grounded feel in a much larger space.

The mood: playful Italian charm with a vintage touch

Andreas Christodoulou, founder of House of Dré, manned the project and listened closely to Haydon’s brief: to double the size of the original space while keeping it playful and approachable.

‘The starting point was east London’s long relationship with Italian cafés and trattorias – places that are generous, unfussy and deeply rooted in their neighbourhoods,’ explains Christodoulou. ‘We didn’t want to recreate a pastiche of an Italian restaurant, but instead capture the spirit of those spaces and reinterpret it through a contemporary east London lens. Tom’s Pasta has always felt like a local institution in the making, so the design needed to feel familiar, welcoming and confident, rather than overly styled or precious.’

The new dining room, bar and kitchen capture this. Upon entering, guests feel at ease, almost familiar with the space, even if it is a first visit. Christodoulou managed to strike a fine balance of creating an environment which feels casual enough to enjoy a bite to eat midweek, while also enjoying a leisurely Friday evening, catching up with friends.

Christodoulou and Haydon are long-standing friends, having met at Hackney Downs Studios – a creative hub and community space in east London located in a historic former printworks. Having such a close bond, House of Dré drew upon Haydon’s welcoming nature as inspiration.

‘Our approach was collaborative and instinctive. Tom has a very clear sense of what he likes, but was also open to ideas, which made the process genuinely enjoyable. The biggest challenge was scaling the restaurant up while keeping the intimacy and charm of the original space. As the footprint grew, it was important that it didn’t lose its warmth or start to feel generic,’ Christodoulou tells Wallpaper*.

Much like the raw authenticity of Italian produce, the interior uses a palette of simple ingredients which are devoured by the eyes. Across the space, there are touches of Formica, chrome, stainless steel, and walnut, which Christodoulou selected to nod to vintage Italo London trattorias while leaning into a midcentury aesthetic.

Each table features a small chrome light, setting an intimate scene. Booths line the left-hand side, while on the right, visitors will find a long banquette to accommodate tables of two. In the middle are large, round circular tables, perfect for chatty conversations or for a bigger party. The open kitchen is at the front of the extension. On the buttery walls are paintings made by local artists; the works will rotate throughout the year. This emphasises the restaurant's purpose, relaxed dining for the local neighbourhood.

‘The palette draws directly from the menu: tiramisu cream and the warm, buttery yellow of handmade pasta, balanced with stainless steel and chrome from the kitchen. Together, it creates an inviting warmth with crisp, contemporary edges,’ says Christodoulou.

The food: lasagne, lasagne, lasagne!

Whether you are tucked into a cosy booth, or gathered around a circular table, both provide a perfect spot to pursue the menu. It is short and sweet, printed on simple paper with items hand-scrawled. To start, cut into a creamy burrata with fresh tomatoes, which is enjoyed with sourdough bread and parmesan butter. The bruschetta is also a generous option to share, think a thick wedge of bread with an abundance of delicately diced tomatoes.

London is not short of Italian restaurants. However, it is at Tom’s Pasta where you might find the best lasagne in the city. The beef shin is the classic option, and with its abundance of cheese gratings and hearty portions, it does not disappoint. If you are looking to add a little kick to the classic, opt for the n’duja.

Of course, there are other offerings such as the sausage, leek and n’duja rigatoni (which is a saucy delight), to the pumpkin and ricotta ravioli cooked in sage butter. All are wonderful options, but do note that the lasagne is the keystone of Tom’s.

‘I love the parmesan butter on the sourdough, and burrata is always a good idea,’ shares Christodoulou. ‘You’ll swear you can’t fit dessert in, but trust me – the tiramisu is super light and fluffy by design. It’s absolutely worth squeezing in. I’ve given it to people who claim they don’t even like tiramisu… and they loved it.’

Tom’s Pasta is located at Hackney Downs Studios, 17 Amhurst Terrace, Lower Clapton, London E8 2BT

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Tianna Williams is Wallpaper’s staff writer. When she isn’t writing extensively across varying content pillars, ranging from design and architecture to travel and art, she also helps put together the daily newsletter. She enjoys speaking to emerging artists, designers and architects, writing about gorgeously designed houses and restaurants, and day-dreaming about her next travel destination.