Dior by Avedon
By Justine Picardie and Olivier Saillard
The creative partnership between Christian Dior and Richard Avedon cemented the French fashion house’s ownership of the post-war look. Avedon’s aesthetic was perfectly attuned to Dior’s rigorously architectural dresses and skirts, and the American photographer combined their graphic simplicity with richly characterised portraits of the models themselves. Avedon didn’t just depict fashion; he placed clothes in context, constructing vignettes of a life being lived.
This new monograph is a collaboration between the Avedon Estate and Dior, set within an elegant framework designed by Graphic Thought Facility. ‘It was incredibly hard to edit down – there are images you just can’t leave out from that first decade, but also ones that haven’t been seen before. It was a balancing act,’ says GTF’s Paul Neale. Avedon’s imagery took high fashion taken into the real world - albeit a beautifully staged one - and this monograph renders these creations in vivid detail.
Published by Rizzoli, $175
Writer: Jonathan Bell; Photography: Emma Blau
Style tomes: the latest fashion editions are as creative outside as in
Dior by Avedon
Dior by Avedon: The book also contains a foreword penned by Jacqueline de Ribes, the French socialite, fashion designer, and muse to many fashion figures, including Valentino and Yves Saint Laurent. Photography: Emma Blau
Dior by Avedon: The famous image that took fashion out of the studio: Dovima with Elephants by Richard Avedon. Evening dress by Dior, Cirque D’hiver, Pairs, 1955
Dior by Avedon: Twiggy, January 1968, in Spring/Summer Haute Couture, posing for the man that helped propell her career
Alber Elbaz / Lanvin: Manifeste
By Alber Elbaz
Intimate anecdotes, 148 hand picked images and witty maxims stitch together the backstory of France’s oldest fashion house through the eyes of its outgoing creative director Alber Elbaz.
Coinciding with the Paris exhibition of the same name, at Maison Européenne de la Photographie, Manifeste examines the mind of Elbaz through a series of candid photographs documenting his creative process. Both vsually and aphoristically, the fashion icon is stripped back. Here Elbaz is revealed as ‘big in his work and small in his life’ as, he explains, his mother had always wished.
Published by Lanvin & Stinsensqueeze, €45
Writer: Elly Parsons; Photography: Charlotte Crowston
Alber Elbaz / Lanvin: Manifeste: Creatives such as But Sou Lai, Mark Leibowitz, Katy Reiss, James Bort, Juliette Da Cunha and Alex Ko have all contributed to this project, through their candid, behind-the-scenes photographs shot throughout Elbaz’ career
Alber Elbaz / Lanvin: Manifeste: Left: Structure, shot by Juliette Da Chuna. Right: Gold, photographed by But Sou Lai
By Giorgio Armani
The non-linear story telling of new tome Giorgio Armani affords new insight into the fashion icon’s career-defining highlights. Beneath its fabric cover, family portraits sit alongside design sketches, interspersed with some of the most iconic fashion photographs of the 21st century. The book traces Mr Armani’s early years as a window dresser, moving through the designer’s 1980s era power dressing to today’s Privé shows and Casa homewares.
Mr Armani is a reticent auto biographer, admitting he is unsure who would want to read about his life, and this reluctance adds a stark honesty and simplicity to this two-inch thick volume, which is as much about the Armani empire as it is about the man himself. Nonetheless, within this fractured, highly intimate narrative, a clear picture is revealed of how the blue-eyed, war baby pictured on the front cover became the 81-year-old icon on the back.
Published by Rizzoli International Publications, $350.00
Writer: Elly Parsons; Photography: Charlotte Crowston
Giorgio Armani: Andy Garcia and Kevin Costner in The Untouchables, 1987, wearing classic Armani powersuits. Photography: Courtesy of Paramount Pictures
Giorgio Armani: Left: Giorgio Armani as seen by Gary. Right: Giorgio Armani by Andy Warhol
Giorgio Armani: Exploring the world of Giorgio Armani at Armani/Silos, April 2015. Photography: Davide Lovatti
Louis Vuitton: Windows
Anyone who stopped to gaze 11 storeys up to take in the entire Yayoi Kusama-spot-clad corner of Louis Vuitton’s 5th Avenue Maison in 2012, giggled at a harlequin elephant on a seesaw in 2011, or marvelled at Frank Gehry’s sailboats last autumn, referencing his Foundation Louis Vuitton, will know that you can’t pass a Louis Vuitton store without lingering in front of the brand’s window designs. They stop you in your tracks and suck you into a whimsical world of pure fantasy celebrated in new book Louis Vuitton Windows, published by Assouline. It celebrates the work of Faye McLeod, who joined Louis Vuitton in July 2009 and oversees the windows for more than 460 stores globally. The displays are generally prepared 12 months in advance and shipped worldwide by boat, one hopes all packed in Louis Vuitton trunks.
For McLeod, windows are ‘a platform to perform in’ or a kind of ‘freeze-frame theatre’. She thrives in what she refers to as Louis Vuitton’s ‘creative community of super-talented people’, and has endeavoured to push the boundaries ever since she understood ‘the viewer wanted us to push’. It seems her boss, LVMH chief Bernard Arnault, who made her visual image director of LVMH in 2012, wants that too. ‘She has the remarkable ability to convey an aesthetic that is striking and refined at the same time,’ he says. ‘Faye has understood the spirit of Louis Vuitton perfectly, especially the combination of timelessness and modernity that is the essence of our products’.
Writer: Nick Vinson; Photography: Charlotte Crowston
Published by Assouline, available from WallpaperSTORE*, €750
Louis Vuitton: Windows: Sketch by Frank Gehry of the ’Sailboat’ windows, Champs-Elysees, maison Paris, 2014. The final product represents the sails and hulls of boats through swooping, curved metallic structures, as if they were blowing softly in the wind, echoing the feeling of movement present in this sketch
Louis Vuitton: Windows: ‘Ostrich’ windows, New Bond Street, maison London, 2010. Hand crafted ostriches with sculpted faces and gold plated legs stand to attention
Louis Vuitton: Windows: ‘Circus’ windows, Champs-Elysees, masion Paris, 2011. Celebrating the holiday season in a quirky, unconventional way
Louis Vuitton: Windows: Sketches of the house’s ’Roller Coaster’ windows, Champs-Elysees, maison Paris, 2011, where designer bags were sent on their own thrill rides through the store front
Louis Vuitton: Windows: Windows by Yayoi Kusama, Champs-Elysee, masion Paris, 2012. The tenticals mimic the Japanese artist’s 2006 piece Ascension of Polka Dots
Bottega Veneta: Art of Collaboration
By Tomas Maier
Bottega Veneta’s substantial new tome titled Art of Collaboration by Tomas Maier features advertising campaigns from the creative director’s 15 years at the house’s helm and includes the work of 27 photographers and artists such as Philip-Lorca, Annie Leibovitz, Steven Meisel and Nan Goldin.
‘Photography is one of my passions in life, and it has been very interesting for me to use photography to broaden the impression of what Bottega Veneta means today,’ says Maier. ‘My role at Bottega Veneta includes creating the advertising campaigns, and it was important for me to do something more than the usual, because I know how emblematic these images can become. I wanted to use the campaigns to express a wider idea of creativity and craft that Bottega Veneta stands for, beyond the normal bounds of fashion.’
Published by Rizzoli, $135.00
Writer: Tilly Macalister-Smith. Photography: Charlotte Crowston
Bottega Veneta: Art of Collaboration: Photography by Annie Leibovitz. Autumn/Winter 2013-14. Hillsborough, New Jersey, United States
Bottega Veneta: Art of Collaboration: Photography by Alex Prager. Spring/Summer 2011. Miami, Florida, United States
Bottega Veneta: Art of Collaboration: Photography by David Sims. Autumn/Winter 2014-15. London, England, United Kingdom
Bottega Veneta: Art of Collaboration: Inguna Butane and Steve Walker shot by Lord Snowdon. Autumn/Winter 2006-2007. Milan, Italy
Bottega Veneta: Art of Collaboration: Photography by Pieter Hugo. Spring/Summer 2014. Perth Amboy, New Jersey, United States
Bottega Veneta: Art of Collaboration: Photography by Robert Polidori. Autumn/Winter 2011-12. Venice, Italy