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A chest-covering corsage. A blown-up zipper. A pair of high-shine shoes. We present the S/S 2023 collections in 12 definitive objects and looks, as seen in the Wallpaper* March 2023 Style Issue and capturing the mood of the season ahead.
Best of the S/S 2023 collections
Static vision: Missoni (above left)
New Missoni creative director Filippo Grazioli’s debut womenswear collection sees the designer riff on the house’s signature stripes and zigzags. Vivid colour predominates, interspersed with black-and-white pieces, their distorted prints evocative of TV static.
In the clear: Christopher Kane (above right)
‘A celebration of the beauty and complexity of the human body,’ says Christopher Kane of his latest collection. A stream of pieces in clear PVC – some decorated with anatomical drawings – continue Kane’s penchant for sensually charged subversion.
Outdoor pursuits: Dior
Top; sunglasses, both price on request, by Dior
Kim Jones looked to nature for inspiration for Dior menswear. Accessories are primed for outdoor pursuits, whether colourful trekking boots, latticed gardening hats or sleek wraparound sunglasses, rendered in Jones’ typically futuristic style.
Sized up: Louis Vuitton
Belt (worn as top), £875; trousers, £4,500, both by Louis Vuitton
Nicolas Ghesquière has taken Louis Vuitton’s most recognised elements, such as the monogram and luggage tag, and supersized them. Case in point: the fist-sized zippers, appearing on trousers and bustiers, are the largest the house has ever manufactured.
Carry on: Fendi
Trousers, £4,100; bag, £2,650, both by Fendi
Fendi’s menswear collection is defined by juxtaposition, eclecticism and play. Bags are equally diverse in design: from frayed-edge denim baguettes and cow-print shoppers to this sporty logo-emblazoned cylindrical holdall.
Gold rush: Celine Homme
Necklace, £3,300, by Celine Homme
This chest-covering necklace mimics the shape of a vast, Alexander Calder-inspired shimmering gold mobile, designed by Celine creative director Hedi Slimane, which dangled over the runway at the Celine menswear show at Palais de Tokyo in Paris (see the Celine Homme S/S 2023 film).
Red alert: Ferragamo
Bag, £2,155, by Ferragamo
Marking the arrival of British designer Maximilian Davis (among our highlights of Milan Fashion Week S/S 2023), Ferragamo’s accessories begin with house hallmarks – like this sleek riff on the ‘Wanda’ bag in the same carmine red that serves as the backdrop of its Peter Saville-designed logo.
In flower: Loewe
Top, price on request; skirt, £1,750, both by Loewe
‘A product of nature that looks like an object of design,’ says Jonathan Anderson of his fascination with the anthurium, which appears throughout his collection for Loewe, whether sprouting from a pair of shoes or blooming from a dress.
Plant life: Homme Plissé Issey Miyake
Tunic, £535, by Homme Plissé Issey Miyake
The uniform pleats of Homme Plissé Issey Miyake are enlivened by colour and print, including vivid reed-like decorations that creep up knee-length tabards or across bomber jackets, part of a wider collection inspired by flowers and vases.
New normal: Prada
Shirt, £1,650; top, £890, both by Prada
Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons describe their latest collection for Prada as being ‘between delicacy and roughness’. Ladylike garments are crumpled or ripped, while quotidian pieces, like a white jersey T-shirt, are adorned with twisted satin flowers.
Mirror image: Bottega Veneta
Shoes, price on request, by Bottega Veneta
An array of footwear options accompany Matthieu Blazy’s collection for Bottega Veneta, which moves between the ‘archetype and the individual’. A flash of glamour is found in these mirror-shine pumps, featuring gravity-defying sculptural heels.
Tailor made: Paul Smith
Jacket, £1,100; trousers, £470, both by Paul Smith
The relaxed cut of 1980s tailoring provides the silhouette for Paul Smith’s menswear, which centres around the suit in an array of colourful hues, from cobalt to pistachio. ‘It used to equal a formal occasion, but now the suit is cool again,’ says Smith.
Models: Clementine at Wilhelmina, Bangali at Models 1. Casting: Svea Casting. Hair: Anna Cofone using Oribe. Make-up: Victoria Martin using Laura Mercier. Manicure: Ami Streets using Chanel La Base and La Crème Main. Photography assistant: Joseph Conway. Digital operator: Alexander Brunacci. Fashion assistant: Kris Bergfeldt.
A version of this story appeared in the March 2023 Style Issue of Wallpaper*, available now in print, on the Wallpaper* app on Apple iOS, and to subscribers of Apple News +. Subscribe to Wallpaper* today