In fashion: our favourite pieces from the S/S 2023 collections

From Loewe‘s giant anthurium-flower corsage to Missoni’s television-static stripes, the objects and looks defining the S/S 2023 season ahead

On left, woman in black and white with hands up wearing zig zag Missoni S/S 2023 dress, on right, woman’s back removing clear Christopher Kane dress
Left, top; trousers, both price on request, by Missoni. Right, dress, £1,195, by Christopher Kane
(Image credit: Photography by Melanie + Ramon, fashion by Jason Hughes)

A chest-covering corsage. A blown-up zipper. A pair of high-shine shoes. We present the S/S 2023 collections in 12 definitive objects and looks, as seen in the Wallpaper* March 2023 Style Issue and capturing the mood of the season ahead.

Best of the S/S 2023 collections

Static vision: Missoni (above left)

New Missoni creative director Filippo Grazioli’s debut womenswear collection sees the designer riff on the house’s signature stripes and zigzags. Vivid colour predominates, interspersed with black-and-white pieces, their distorted prints evocative of TV static.

In the clear: Christopher Kane (above right)

‘A celebration of the beauty and complexity of the human body,’ says Christopher Kane of his latest collection. A stream of pieces in clear PVC – some decorated with anatomical drawings – continue Kane’s penchant for sensually charged subversion.

Outdoor pursuits: Dior

Close up of man in sporty wraparound sunglasses by Dior

Top; sunglasses, both price on request, by Dior

(Image credit: Photography by Melanie + Ramon, fashion by Jason Hughes)

Kim Jones looked to nature for inspiration for Dior menswear. Accessories are primed for outdoor pursuits, whether colourful trekking boots, latticed gardening hats or sleek wraparound sunglasses, rendered in Jones’ typically futuristic style.

Sized up: Louis Vuitton

Woman in black and white wearing bustier and trousers with giant zipper by Louis Vuitton

Belt (worn as top), £875; trousers, £4,500, both by Louis Vuitton

(Image credit: Photography by Melanie + Ramon, fashion by Jason Hughes)

Nicolas Ghesquière has taken Louis Vuitton’s most recognised elements, such as the monogram and luggage tag, and supersized them. Case in point: the fist-sized zippers, appearing on trousers and bustiers, are the largest the house has ever manufactured.

Carry on: Fendi

Man with no top wearing trousers and carrying holdall by Fendi

Trousers, £4,100; bag, £2,650, both by Fendi

(Image credit: Photography by Melanie + Ramon, fashion by Jason Hughes)

Fendi’s menswear collection is defined by juxtaposition, eclecticism and play. Bags are equally diverse in design: from frayed-edge denim baguettes and cow-print shoppers to this sporty logo-emblazoned cylindrical holdall.

Gold rush: Celine Homme

Close up on man in black and white wearing Celine chest-covering metallic necklace

Necklace, £3,300, by Celine Homme

(Image credit: Photography by Melanie + Ramon, fashion by Jason Hughes)

This chest-covering necklace mimics the shape of a vast, Alexander Calder-inspired shimmering gold mobile, designed by Celine creative director Hedi Slimane, which dangled over the runway at the Celine menswear show at Palais de Tokyo in Paris (see the Celine Homme S/S 2023 film).

Red alert: Ferragamo

Woman in black bodysuit holding red sculpted handbag by Ferragamo

Bag, £2,155, by Ferragamo

(Image credit: Photography by Melanie + Ramon, fashion by Jason Hughes)

Marking the arrival of British designer Maximilian Davis (among our highlights of Milan Fashion Week S/S 2023), Ferragamo’s accessories begin with house hallmarks – like this sleek riff on the ‘Wanda’ bag in the same carmine red that serves as the backdrop of its Peter Saville-designed logo.

In flower: Loewe

Woman with giant anthurium flower on front of dress by Loewe

Top, price on request; skirt, £1,750, both by Loewe

(Image credit: Photography by Melanie + Ramon, fashion by Jason Hughes)

‘A product of nature that looks like an object of design,’ says Jonathan Anderson of his fascination with the anthurium, which appears throughout his collection for Loewe, whether sprouting from a pair of shoes or blooming from a dress.

Plant life: Homme Plissé Issey Miyake

Man in pleated tabard with plant-inspired print by Issey Miyake

Tunic, £535, by Homme Plissé Issey Miyake

(Image credit: Photography by Melanie + Ramon, fashion by Jason Hughes)

The uniform pleats of Homme Plissé Issey Miyake are enlivened by colour and print, including vivid reed-like decorations that creep up knee-length tabards or across bomber jackets, part of a wider collection inspired by flowers and vases.

New normal: Prada

Close up of woman in black and white wearing white shirt with floral adorment by Prada

Shirt, £1,650; top, £890, both by Prada

(Image credit: Photography by Melanie + Ramon, fashion by Jason Hughes)

Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons describe their latest collection for Prada as being ‘between delicacy and roughness’. Ladylike garments are crumpled or ripped, while quotidian pieces, like a white jersey T-shirt, are adorned with twisted satin flowers.

Mirror image: Bottega Veneta

A pair of high-shine silver metallic shoes

Shoes, price on request, by Bottega Veneta

(Image credit: Photography by Melanie + Ramon, fashion by Jason Hughes)

An array of footwear options accompany Matthieu Blazy’s collection for Bottega Veneta, which moves between the ‘archetype and the individual’. A flash of glamour is found in these mirror-shine pumps, featuring gravity-defying sculptural heels.

Tailor made: Paul Smith

Man in suit by Paul Smith

Jacket, £1,100; trousers, £470, both by Paul Smith

(Image credit: Photography by Melanie + Ramon, fashion by Jason Hughes)

The relaxed cut of 1980s tailoring provides the silhouette for Paul Smith’s menswear, which centres around the suit in an array of colourful hues, from cobalt to pistachio. ‘It used to equal a formal occasion, but now the suit is cool again,’ says Smith.

Models: Clementine at Wilhelmina, Bangali at Models 1. Casting: Svea Casting. Hair: Anna Cofone using Oribe. Make-up: Victoria Martin using Laura Mercier. Manicure: Ami Streets using Chanel La Base and La Crème Main. Photography assistant: Joseph Conway. Digital operator: Alexander Brunacci. Fashion assistant: Kris Bergfeldt.

A version of this story appeared in the March 2023 Style Issue of Wallpaper*, available now in print, on the Wallpaper* app on Apple iOS, and to subscribers of Apple News +. Subscribe to Wallpaper* today

Fashion Features Editor

Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*, joining the team in 2022. Having previously been the digital features editor at AnOther and digital editor at 10 and 10 Men magazines, he has also contributed to titles including i-D, Dazed, 10 Magazine, Mr Porter’s The Journal and more, while also featuring in Dazed: 32 Years Confused: The Covers, published by Rizzoli. He is particularly interested in the moments when fashion intersects with other creative disciplines – notably art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and reporting from international fashion weeks. Across his career, he has interviewed the fashion industry’s leading figures, including Rick Owens, Pieter Mulier, Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, Christian Lacroix, Kate Moss and Manolo Blahnik.

With contributions from