This paean to French country food has occupied its urbane Rive Gauche location since the 1930s, but its Norman farmhouse décor grew tired while nearby rue de Bac grew ever more chic. Seeing an opportunity, the local design-minded entrepreneur Laurent Le Limouzin stepped in, hiring Marcelo Joulia of Naço Architectures to overhaul the look, while Ali Iguedlane, chef for more than a decade, refreshed the traditional menu. It has now reopened with a sophisticated, moody interior punctuated by oxblood-leather banquettes, splendid brass accents and intimate glass pendant lighting. Iguedlane's kitchen delivers finely tuned rustic classics like suckling pig, veal sweetbreads and French Dover sole in butter with risotto and herbs.