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LVMH Watch Week, this year taking place in Milan from 19 to 21 January, is the first opportunity to discover the watch trends for the year ahead. LVMH is presenting new timepieces from Zenith, TAG Heuer, Gérald Genta, Daniel Roth, and Louis Vuitton. The latter three brands, part of Le Fabrique du Temps (LVMH’s Geneva-based manufacture) exemplify its distinctive contemporary design and ambitious mechanical ethos.
Here are seven brand highlights that see LVMH Watch Week once again framing horology as micro-engineered statements shaped by culture, proportion and intent.
Bulgari Maglia Milanese Monete
One of the highlights of Bulgari's novelties this week is the Maglia Milanese Monete in rose gold. This broad, woven milanaise mesh bracelet revisits the Monete collection from the mid Sixties. Just like its forebears, an ancient Roman coin from 198-297 AD takes centre stage, set in a central lid that covers the ‘secret’ watch, within an octagonal frame set with diamonds. The watch features a mother-of-pearl dial with twelve diamond indices, set into a square, sunray-patterned, engraved case that houses the Piccolissimo BVP 100 manual movement.
Hublot Classic Fusion All Black Camo
Hublot teams up once again with Yohji Yamamoto, unveiling their fourth joint creation: the Classic Fusion All Black Camo, produced in a limited run of 300 watches. A matte black ceramic case, juxtapose against a hybrid strap of fabric an rubber, brings a rich textuality to black. Rooted in Hublot’s All Black DNA and Yamamoto’s avant-garde mastery of form, the watch elevates black to an art form.
Gerald Genta Geneva Time Only
The soft contours of the Gerald Genta Minute Repeater, shown last year at Geneva Watch Days, quickly became one of our favourites, and with collectors clamouring for a more accessible version, Gerald Genta has delivered. With a version in white gold and another in 4N rose gold, the softly rounded cushion case is neither square nor circular, very different from Genta’s angular sports watches and flamboyant jump-hour creations. The graphite version has a monochrome, grained dial with a soft fumé appearance, with the choice of gold for the indices and hands adds a soft contrast. The Geneva Time Only is a wearable 38mm, and features a Zenith Elite movement, enabling a svelte 8.5mm profile.
Louis Vuitton Escale Tiger’s Eye
Based on last year's releases, Louis Vuitton can do no wrong with its Tambour and Escale wristwear. In Milan, the Escale and Convergence took centre stage, with the new Tiger’s Eye version of the Escale proving that stone dials are here to stay. It carries on the torch lit by Louis Vuitton in Dubai last November, where the actual mic case is crafted from solid stone, and at 40mm, it makes a strong statement. The 18K yellow gold offsets the lighter stripes in the semi-precious stone, accentuating the warm tones as the rounded lugs embrace the striated stone case. With a 10.34 mm thickness, it is versatile and features an automatic movement, fitted with a soft brown Saffiano leather strap.
Zenith DEFY Skyline Tourbillon Skeleton
There were watches at the LVMH Watch Week in steel and ceramic, but there was also a marked emphasis on precious metals, seen as both a celebration of the group’s watchmaking and a signal that higher price points are more stable sources of income for many brands. Tangential market views aside, Zenith comes on strong with a host of new DEFY novelties, leaning on the modern expression of the Skyline series, and this is the halo model. With the hypnotic spin of a tourbilllon at 6 o’clock and without a traditional dial to conceal it, the movement’s architectural flair becomes the highlight of the show. Framed in an angular case, with its recognisable twelve-sided bezel, it is a distinct blue, with juxtaposed bridgework in the 41mm case in warm rose gold. Power is provided by the El Primero 3630 SK movement, which offers a 50-hour power reserve.
Daniel Roth Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton
By reviving the Daniel Roth brand, LVMH has introduced one of the most distinctive shapes to a new cadre of collectors, headed by the creative force of Gerald Genta’s two original watchmakers, Navas and Barbasini. We have been treated to restrained, pinstripe dials and immaculate movement finishing, but with the Skeleton version of the Extra Plat in rose gold, we have a small, distinctive case. With a fan-like, skeletonised bridgework intricacy taking centre stage, the understated Daniel Roth shape displays delicate hand finishing, with two blued hands contrasting the warm tones of the movement.
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Seafarer
TAG Heuer offers an accessible, sportier outlook, underscored by the fresh colours of the Seafarer. It marks a return to the world of sailing seen in 2023, with the release of a modern interpretation of the celebrated ‘Skipper’ regatta countdown timer of the 1960s. This time, maritime history comes to the fore again with the return of another chronograph, inspired by the Heuer ‘Seafarer’ tide watch, which dates back to 1949. With a champagne-like dial set in the Glassbox case, it’s a dressy take on a sports chronograph, and balances the retro vibe with modern detailing, and a fascinating tide indicator at 9 o’clock in the larger 42mm version of the Carrera case.
L’Epée 1839 La Regatta
This is not a wristwatch, but L’Epée 1839 makes a strong case for the re-emergence of sculptural clocks within the horological spectrum. La Regatta is a sculptural, almost totemic clock inspired by a racing skiff, featuring an exposed, vertically inclined movement and an eight-day power reserve. The ‘hull’ of the angular creation is adorned with Grand Feu enamel art, courtesy of the Georgian atelier of David Kakabadze, a well-known artisan.