The watch releases to know at Geneva Watch Days 2025

Launched in 2020 at the height of the pandemic, Geneva Watch Days (4-7 September) was the brainchild of Bulgari’s Jean-Christophe Babin, with early backing from Breitling, Bulgari and independents like MB&F. Conceived as an agile, open-air response to the dying behemoth Baselworld, it transformed the city into a stage, scattering launches across hotels, boutiques and galleries. What began as a necessity has set the tone for a decentralised, collaborative, and refreshingly open event.

Now in its fifth year, the roster has swelled to include both heavyweight maisons and niche indies, as well as the founding independents. This year, newcomers like TAG Heuer and Bremont share the spotlight with acclaimed independents such as H. Moser & Cie, Ulysse Nardin and Czapek. The result is a unique alchemy of global giants, avant-garde independents and enthusiastic collectors.

From classic to avant-garde: highlights from Geneva Watch Days

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport TH-Carbonspring

For its Geneva Watch Days debut, TAG Heuer brought out the big guns, with the Carrera and Monaco as the headliners. The chronograph is a Carrera seen through the lens of material innovation, featuring an evolution of their TH carbonspring® tech now ready for serial production. This carbon-cased edition is a sculptural sports watch, with the woven carbon surface offset by a spiral-engraved dial that draws the eye inward. Sleek black tones dominate, but sharp details and luminous details ensure legibility doesn’t lose out to experimentation. The watch balances Carrera’s racing heritage with futurist monochrome, and unsurprisingly is feather-light on the wrist, a Carrera distilled into pure architectural statement.

tagheuer.com

Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan x Bulgari

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Lee Ufan Special Edition is a study in restrained geometry and materiality. Each 40mm titanium case is hand-filed to a textured, rough finish with overlapping deep and shallow cuts that juxtapose an ethereal mirror-effect in the dial with a vertical fume effect that shifts from grey to black. The signature octagonal bezel and integrated bracelet maintain the collection's architectural integrity. At the same time, the 2.23mm ultra-thin movement reminds us of how much micro-engineering plays a part in the Finissimo success story. Creating an unusual contrast, this marks the first time a steel bezel with radial brushing has been incorporated into the titanium case of the Finissimo. Limited to 150 pieces, this timepiece embodies a harmonious blend of sculptural form and minimalist design, reflecting Ufan's artistic philosophy.

bulgari.com

Bremont Supermarine

Bremont, with Davide Cerrato at the wheel, is asserting its role as a staunchly British take on watchmaking. We’ve seen a reinvigorated range of pilot watches in the Altitude range, and the team was out in force in Geneva with the latest version of the Supermarine 500M, their subaquatic alibi. As part of the renewed brand portfolio, the Supermarine features a crisp, polar white dial with a Grand Seiko-esque quality. It comes in 43mm contrasted by a matt black ceramic bezel, and on their best bracelet yet. The sweeping dune-like texture of the dial works well, and the case is rendered in 904L steel, a harder-to-machine steel used by Rolex, a step above most brands with its distinct lustre.

bremont.com

Gerald Charles Masterlink

Fronting the singular look of a baroque-cased Genta legacy, Gerald Charles’ new gem set version of the Masterlink series focuses on slim geometry and proportion, then surprises with the dazzle of each bezel being invisibly set with sapphires or tsavorites. The stones form a seamless ring that underlines the quirky shape of the signature Masterlink case, with its softened square profile and curved “smile” at six o’clock. It has an architectural quality in its balance of curvaceous case with a strong linearity in the dial, which catches the light but remains a quiet contrast to the polished gem-set frame.

geraldcharles.com

Gerald Genta Geneva Minute Repeater

A favourite of the week was LVMH halo brand Gérald Genta, who presented a new Minute Repeater. Designed by Matthieu Hegi, the 40mm yellow gold case features ultra-thin walls—just 0.6mm at its thinnest point—allowing for optimal sound in a monochrome package, with a distinct end of last century style. The black onyx dial, with a minute track echoing the case's cushion shape, enhances the auditory experience and makes for a strong timeless look. Inside, the Calibre GG-002 movement, developed by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton's watchmakers Enrico Barbasini and Michel Navas, delivers a crystalline chime. Only ten of these will be made, a timepiece that merges form, function, and sound in a harmonious architectural expression with an almost talismanic quality.

geraldgenta.com

Oris Big Crown Calibre 113

A colourful, retro-tinged sports watch, but with a business calendar? This was an interesting card put on the table by Oris in Geneva. With a lare 43mm case, Oris shows off its Calibre 113, yielding a watch that feels equal parts tool and design experiment. The steel case and oversized crown stay true to pilot watch codes, but the dial is a fun mix of minty green and pink, with an unusual day/date and yearly calendar making for a playful circle of information. A central pointer marks weeks of the year, while day, date, and month occupy neatly balanced windows, all tied together in mint green with rose-pink accents. Ten days of hand-wound reserve keep it steady and retro-architectural, serious in function with a joyful modern twist.

oris.ch

Beda’a Angles

One of the busiest suites at the Beau Rivage hotel during Geneva Watch Days was occupied by Qatar-based brand Beda’a. The brand is run by its 30-year-old creative director Sohaib Maghnam and founder Hader Al-Suwaidi, and one of their debut creations is nominated for a GPHG award, the Oscars of the watch world. At Geneva they presented the perfectly sized new Mecaline version of the octagonal Angles, a 37mm big-lugged piece of minimalist chic. Sohaib has managed to distil the idea of a dress watch, keeping it within a slim 6mm case yet still managing to fit a manual wind ETA7001 movement.

bedaawatches.com

Zenith x USM Chronomaster Revival

Zenith has collaborated with modular furniture brand USM on the Zenith x USM Chronomaster Revival. The company launched its distinctive Haller system, using a ball-joint connector, in 1965, four years before the El Primero movement was unveiled in 1969. It is a shared history acknowledged in retro details including the warm yellow dial and a strong, graphic silhouette.

zenithwatches.com

Renaud Tixier Monday Organica

Dominique Renaud is known as an alchemist of horology; an inventor, rather than a watchmaker, demonstrated in the debut watch from his brand, Renaud Tixier. The Monday Organica offers a duality of mechanical craft and métiers d’art. Powered by Renaud’s RVI2023 Calibre, a highly innovative micro-rotor movement, the 7 pieces that will be produced all feature an intricate dial with blue tones by Olivier Vaucher. Each dial is the result of 112 hours of work that combines multi-level hand engraving, grand feu enamel, and textural effects that transform the surface into a miniature landscape. The enigmatic dial is housed in a hand-engraved scalloped 40.8mm platinum case with a thickness of 12.6mm, including a domed sapphire crystal.

renaudtixier.com

Ulysse Nardin Freak X Crystalium

The Freak watch is 24 years old this year, and Ulysse Nardin marks the anniversary with an embrace of glittering decorative arts. Framed in a black DLC suit, at the core of the Crystalium disc is ruthenium, a platinum-group metal which over days undergoes a slow, controlled vapour-deposition crystallisation process. The Crystalium hour disc, with its pointer positioned beneath the movement, serves as the hour hand, a subtle, continuous motion that fuses engineering and aesthetics. Due do the complexity of the Crystalium manufacturing process, it is only made in an edition of 50 watches.

ulysse-nardin.com

Laurent Ferrier Classic Tourbillon Teal Serie Atelier

Laurent Ferrier is the epitome of quietly spoken classicism, with no blustering or avant-garde flash. Instead, Laurent and a team that includes his son, Christian, have carefully honed a brand that represents a minimalist purity. Each case in the Classic collection is as smooth - and exhibits the same organic balance - as the pebble it takes inspiration from, this time rendered in 950 platinum. The distinctive lustre of weighty platinum frames a dark teal dial in grand feu enamel on a white gold base with the slimmest of Roman numeral markers. Only five pieces will be made, featuring the same LF619.01 calibre that won Laurent Ferrier a GPHG on its debut back in 2010, here in a more contemporary finish, with its beguiling tourbillon visible only to the owner.

laurentferrier.ch.

Furlan Marri Disco Volante Onyx

A highlight of Geneva Watch Days is the chance to discover small brands like Furlan Marri, know for their sub-£1K watches. The big retro wave might be less of a tsunami than five years ago, but last year’s trend of stone dials and shaped cases remain strong. Furlan Marri’s new Disco Volante takes its cues from Audemars Piguet UFO-shaped watches of the Fifties, with an organically layered look that frames a polished black Onyx dial. Underlining its dressy nature are baguette-cut lab grown diamonds for markers, and the slinky weave of a milanaise bracelet.

furlanmarri.com=

Geneva Watch Days from 4-7 September