Hermès has long understood that a dial can be a canvas for creativity. The maison's Arceau collection has a strong history of dial art, often with an equine inspiration. The new Hermès Arceau Cheval Natté sees the brand hand that canvas to Chinese-born, Finland-based industrial designer Tong Ren. Originally sketched for homeware design, Ren's embroidered scene has been reimagined for the delicate proportions of a 38mm watch. The form of a horse's head dissolves into abstract geometry, framed by a ring of 70 bezel-set diamonds.
Shards of red, cobalt, ochre and green interlock, almost like stained glass. The intricate silk-thread marquetry, a time-consuming craft, sits within the Arceau's equestrian-influenced form, a timeless shape that Henri d'Origny gave the house in 1978. The curvaceous case with its stirrup-like asymmetric shape has since become a strong vehicle for artistic experimentation at the Hermès atelier.
The dial is a mini masterpiece, set with 123 diamonds (in addition to those in the bezel). Nearly 400 individually selected silk threads are laid by hand, each angled to play with light as it catches them.
We have seen this type of marquetry before from Hermés; the maison has previously presented dials hand-decorated with straw or micron-thick wood. This particular example repurposes textile techniques for horology, giving the dial a tactility and life that print or lacquer cannot replicate. The diamonds set into the composition are defined by champlevé engraving, so the stones sit within the silk scene rather than on top of it.
Inside, the watch is powered by the in-house Hermès H1912 calibre, visible through a sapphire case back that reveals a scattering of Hermès H motifs. The watch is available in beige- or dark brown-dialled iterations, fitted with a beige or black soft alligator strap, respectively, hand-finished at the Hermès leather workshop.
Hermès Arceau Cheval Natté watch, £79,000, enquire at hermes.com