Opals are the jewellery world's latest rock stars
Opal is finally having its moment in the jewellery world

There are few stones more polarising in the style stakes than the opal. Often lampooned for its bohemian sensibilities and cleansing powers, the opal, in all its myriad colours and patinas, has recently made a sartorial come back as the unexpected stone star of Louis Vuitton’s latest high jewellery collection in addition to series by contemporary fine jewellers from Monique Péan to Noor Fares.
‘Over the last few years we've seen fine jewellery become more of a fashion category,’ says Sophie Quy, Net-A-Porter.com’s fine jewellery buyer. ‘Women are buying fine jewellery for themselves and experimenting with other stones in addition to the classic diamond. Opals have been one the most popular stones with our customers.’ From Melissa Joy Manning’s gradated drop earrings to Brooke Gregson’s gold bezelled opal pendants, after millions of years in the making, the mineraloid is finally having its moment.
‘Whether it's the rich deep blues and turquoise of Australian boulder opals, or the fierce orange hues of Mexican fire opals, each stone has a unique feel and flow to it,’ Quy adds of its chameleon qualities. Ranging from opaque to semitransparent, each opal is a true one-of-a-kind, which is exactly what makes it so inspiring for jewellers.
‘I started working with opal after visiting Peru in 2011,’ says Monique Péan, who visits a new country for sustainable material inspiration each year. Deep within the Andes Mountains near San Patricio, Péan found the rare and translucent Peruvian blue opal. ‘Depending on the cut of the stone, Peruvian opal may be clear, scenic (showing varying degrees of colour) or dendritic with black fern-like inclusions,’ she explains, adding that the artisans collect the stones in small quantities, so their collection is free from chemical mining.
Meanwhile, Brooke Gregson, who primarily works with the Australian stones, says, ‘I’ve been working with boulder opals for so many years and just recently people have started gravitating towards it.' The London-based, Los Angeles-born jeweller quite rightly describes as ‘nature’s paintings’.
‘One centimetre of boulder opal takes like 4 million years to form,’ Gregson continues, explaining that Australia’s national gemstone makes up only two percent of the world’s opal stocks. ‘It’s water-rich, having been formed by water seeping into the crevices of the earth.’ Which also means that they are known as a power stone, cleansing the organs while enhancing creativity. Yes, the opal has joined that other 1970s relic – glazed pottery – as 2015’s unearthed design treasure.
‘Whether it’s the rich deep blues and turquoise of Australian boulder opals, or the fierce orange hues of Mexican fire opals, each stone has a unique feel and flow to it,’ says Net-A-Porter.com’s fine jewellery buyer Sophie Quy of its chameleon qualities. Pictured: Melissa Joy Manning’s gradated drop earrings
Louis Vuitton’s latest high jewellery collection also unearthed the allure of the Australian black opal - the rarest of the stone’s myriad hues
‘I’ve been working with boulder opals for so many years and just recently people have started gravitating towards it,’ says London-based, Los Angeles-born jeweller Brooke Gregson
Gregson quite rightly describes the mineraloid as ‘nature’s paintings’
‘One centimetre of boulder opal takes like 4 million years to form,’ Gregson says of Australia’s national gemstone that makes up two per cent of the world’s opal stocks
Noor Fares’ ’Eclipse’ and ’Round Cabochon Rhombus’ rings feature Ethiopian opals
Fernando Jorge’s stream cycle earrings include pink opal mined in Brazil
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
-
Mika Cars wants to build the Mino, a sporty, ultra-compact electric two-seater for the open road
An evolution of Mika’s Meon electric beach buggy, the little Mino is an ultra-light EV with big-car aspirations
By Jonathan Bell
-
Beck on his orchestral shows: 'It's something that can't be simulated by AI'
Following two nights at London's Royal Albert Hall, Wallpaper* meets Beck and conductor Edwin Outwater to hear how the pair brought to life Beck's back catalogue with an 80-piece orchestra
By Jordan Bassett
-
Formula 1 in photos: 100 memorable moments
A new book, ‘Formula 1: The Impossible Collection’, marks 75 years of the motor-racing championship – a history full of tenacity, triumph and tragedy
By Bridget Downing
-
The new Louis Vuitton Tambour turns a sports dress watch on its head
Louis Vuitton's latest watch puts a modern spin on a historical inspiration
By James Gurney
-
LVMH watch week 2025: everything we know so far
Our guide to LVMH Watch Week 2025, taking place in New York and Paris, starting 21 January; keep an eye out for our updates
By James Gurney
-
Wild beauties: high jewellery dripping with drama
The latest high jewellery collections are fantastic and flamboyant, drawing on a wealth of influences, from a Chopin composition and César Ritz to crocodiles and colour refraction
By Hannah Silver
-
New Louis Vuitton Tambour redefines the house’s watchmaking
Key brand details characterise the Louis Vuitton Tambour 40mm
By Thor Svaboe
-
New Louis Vuitton watch prize announced for independent creatives
Louis Vuitton’s Swiss watch workshop – La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton – will be introducing design minds to the world of watchmaking, in a newly announced biennial prize
By Martha Elliott
-
Meet Louis Vuitton’s globetrotting new Viviennes
Louis Vuitton’s Vivienne has been reborn as 11 chic new jewellery figures
By Hannah Silver
-
Sherbet dip: Virgil Abloh’s signet rings for Louis Vuitton hit the sweet spot
The more quotidian elements of design continue to fascinate Virgil Abloh
By Hannah Silver
-
Bold, graphic and art-inspired, A/W 2015's statement making runway jewels
By Katrina Israel