Watches & Jewellery

Bold, graphic and art-inspired, A/W 2015's statement making runway jewels

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Crystal and enamel hoops and nose rings, which spiced up his more buttoned-up, Victorian-esque wears

Givenchy: Riccardo Tisci looked to the Chola girls of the South American gang scene to inspire this elaborately embelished pearl, crystal and enamel hoops and nose rings, which spiced up his more buttoned-up, Victorian-esque wears

(Image credit: TBC)

By Katrina Israel

published 29 April 2015

in News

**Rodarte:** The Mulleavy sisters disco-era dance would not have been complete without a choker or two, and they obliged with black or white enamel and gold buckled versions.

**Gucci:** Alessandro Michele's romantic womenswear debut for Gucci was acessorised with elaborate floral corsage necklaces and an eclectic assortment of coloured jewelled rings worn *en masse* as through fossicked from Grandmother's jewellery box.

**Stella McCartney:** The British designer's costume pearl collars, set on flexible brass wires, wrapped McCartney's models' necks with a sculptural wave in charcoal or off-white hued beads.

**Chanel:** We first saw the return of the badge on the A/W 2015 menswear runways, and the trend continued at Chanel where Karl Lagerfeld fashioned costume brooches that toyed with the house's camelia, pearl and quilting motifs, and were pinned onto tweed jackets. Oversized chain chokers also recieved the same textural encrusting

Daisy earrings cascaded from models' ears, often meeting regaled bib necklaces that were envisaged from the same encrusted floral motifs — **Miu Miu:** This season Mrs Prada set out to showcase a conflict of eras, textures and authenticity from her *faux* animal prints to her costume baubles. 1950s style daisy earrings cascaded from models' ears, often meeting regaled bib necklaces that were envisaged from the same encrusted floral motifs

This season the bead was back decorating seams and even wrapping the neck — **Simone Rocha:** The pearl quickly became a signature of the Irish designer's oeuvre, and this season the bead was back decorating seams and even wrapping the neck. Rocha may use acrylic pearls, but they are always fit for a queen.

**Thomas Tait:** For his latest London show, Thomas Tait worked with a English glassblower on his transparent, sculptural neckpieces that were handmade in Somerset

**Marni:** Sphere-like discs weighed down the ears of Consuelo Castiglioni's Amazonian muses and were sealed from behind with a gleaming golden ball.

**Dolce & Gabbana:** The motif of the rose jumped off the design duo's Guipure lace, and were cast in gold for the show's ornate gem-studded earrings and headpieces that held the weight of family heirlooms.

**Christopher Kane**: The London designer's patent leather chokers picked up on Kane's signature saftey belt fastenings and sealed his collection's boom era electricity.

**Burberry Prorsum**: Christopher Bailey's bohemian Seventies sojourn saw fringe and mirrors patchworking his arts and crafts collection, which included pom pom bracelets that adorned his models' wrists.

**JW Anderson:** Anderson's textural A/W romp was sealed with Perspex or gold plated brass triangle earrings that completed the show's Eighties avalanche.

The London-based creative did the loop di loop for this season's trio of earings — **Jonathan Saunders:** The London-based creative did the loop di loop for this season's trio of (ear)rings, which he designed using white coated silver.

**Proenza Schouler:** Sculpted metallic cuffs were pushed up the arms commando style for Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough's 'Warrior Princess' show at New York's Whitney museum.

**Prada:** Plex and crystal floral corsages finished jacket lapels or high-combed hairstyles at Mrs Prada's prim presentation.

Metal tasselled earrings made from lightweight lacquered brass — **Missoni:** The Italian house incorporated the season's fringe fever into dangling, metal tasselled earrings made from lightweight lacquered brass.

**Céline:** Phoebe Philo may have ignited the single earring trend a few season's back, but for A/W she took a more delicate approach. Philo's 'Wonderland' drops included swinging blackberry, fox, squirrel and daisy motifs, while her 'Dot' style saw simple discs of gold or rose gold elegantly tiered.

Swinging disc necklaces inspired by Olafur Eliasson's — **Carven**: With new creative directors Alexis Martial and Adrien Caillaudaud taking over the reigns at Carven, the duo were also responsible for their debut show’s swinging disc necklaces inspired by Olafur Eliasson's Tate Modern 'Weather Project'

Retro futurism with brooches made from Cabochon stones and pendant necklaces composed of Cabochon and black metal — **Louis Vuitton:** Nicolas Ghesquière's A/W accessories offering embraced a decidedly graphic, retro futurism with brooches made from Cabochon stones and pendant necklaces composed of Cabochon and black metal

Delicate petals were handcrafted in Paris from silk and viscose fabrics to create life-like blooms recast as decadent neckpieces — **Dries Van Noten:** The Belgian designer has never been shy of a corsage - in fact they are something of a signature - and this season delicate petals were handcrafted in Paris from silk and viscose fabrics to create life-like blooms recast as decadent neckpieces.

**Victoria Beckham:** The London designer's New York show was accessorised with pearl and gem encrusted cuffs that somewhat resembled a tailor's pin cushion.

**Lanvin:** Inspired by the Moroccan desert, the Parisian house's jewellery designer Elie Top once again out did himself with his Farida necklace that saw an oversized Swarovski crystal dipped in gold and laced on a calfskin rope.

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Katrina Israel

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