Lydia Courteille brings an informed background in antique jewellery into her collections, which intertwine eclectic inspirations and offbeat designs for exciting high jewellery pieces. The jewellery designer’s new collection, unveiled at Paris Couture, draws inspiration from the history of the Silk Road and the mythical character of Iparhan, an 18th century princess who, legend has it, became the first consort of a Qing dynasty emperor.
‘This legend is very well known in China and has made its way into modern cinema and fairy tales,’ says Courteille. ‘In my research and design process, I noticed that very few designers have used jewellery and traditional materials as a means to delve into the rich history of China, though its history is as old and awe-inspiring as that of ancient Egypt. This made jewellery such an exciting medium with which to tell this story.’ The collection is a natural continuation of her ‘Topkapi’ collection, which translated the tales of the historic Topkapi Palace of Istanbul into high jewellery.
In these new pieces, Iparhan’s portrait is exhibited on a ring, framed in diamonds, sapphires, apatites, aquamarines and cavansites. History is a thread that runs throughout, reflected in the extensive use of jade, the cutting of which is a Chinese tradition stretching back 6,000 years. Rings and earrings nod to these ancient traditions, as does a pendant of a fisherman holding two koi carp, his body drawn in watermelon tourmalines, tsavorites and pink sapphires. The precious gems are embraced alongside more unusual materials, such as a dinosaur gembone, which represents the sands of the Taklamakan desert, and darkly coloured diamonds, which draw the Terracotta Army.
‘I believe that nature is generous, and provides designers with natural wonders – stones that are already works of art,’ says Courteille. ‘For this collection, I loved using Deschutes jasper, and Oregon jasper, which helped to create a sense of theatre in my pieces. I was also drawn to the truly ornamental stones that we can extract from the Earth, such as the boulder opal and the rainbow chrysocolla.’
INFORMATION
-
How Augustinus Bader became a billion-dollar brand in four yearsCult skincare brand Augustinus Bader has just become one of the biggest businesses in beauty
-
Bentley Mulliner Batur is a ‘revolution’ for the brand, says director of design Andreas Mindt
The Bentley Batur is the ultimate expression of Bentley’s Mulliner division, a majestic two-door car that could light the way to an all-electric future
-
Roll up! It‘s the Faro Modernist Weekend’s inaugural edition
Faro Modernist Weekend, a festival dedicated to mid-century architectural delights in the Portugal’s Algarve, has just launched its first iteration
-
Tiffany & Co’s Blue Book ‘Botanica’ collection comes up roses
Tiffany & Co draws on its heritage for delectable new jewellery collection
-
Boghossian high jewellery in sorbet shades puts us in the mood for summer
Boghossian’s multicoloured gemstone and diamond high jewellery set plays on pastel hues
-
Chanel marks No.5 centenary with dazzling high jewellery collection
New Chanel high jewellery nods to the design codes of Coco Chanel’s original 1932 collection, and celebrates Chanel No.5
-
Mikimoto unveils new high jewellery collection
Mikimoto’s new jewellery collection nods to the passing of the seasons
-
Boucheron unveils rainbow high jewellery
The new high jewellery from Boucheron sees precious metals sprayed onto ceramics and rock crystal at high temperatures for holographic hues
-
Schiaparelli’s July 2021 high jewellery collection launches at Paris Couture Week
Schiaparelli’s bijoux are as bold as ever, as artistic director Daniel Roseberry nods to matadors and space aliens and says, ‘Give me more beauty’
-
Chaumet’s 2021 high jewellery collection launches at Paris Couture Week
Chaumet’s high jewellery takes inspiration from the column of Paris’ Place Vendôme
-
Bulgari’s new high jewellery pays tribute to Milan
Bulgari unveils a new high jewellery and watches collection, Magnifica, as a joyful and dynamic ode to Milan
