La Dame de Pic — London, UK

The proprietor of a handful of restaurants, a cooking school, a deli, and with a number of cookbooks to her name, it is clear that Anne-Sophie Pic – one of the few female chefs to hold three Michelin stars – does not do things by halves.
Which is why, for her first London outpost, she chose to set up shop within the grand Grade II-listed former headquarters of the Port of London Authority, now home to the new Four Seasons hotel, one of the city’s most anticipated openings.
Inside the restaurant, designer Bruno Moinard has been guided by the Beaux Arts bones of the building, dressing the original sculptural embellishments with tactile, toffee-coloured leather and tinted mirrors; while a central chandelier, designed to evoke the French card game La Dame de Pique, is a nod to the restaurant’s name.
Divided into sections – possibly to counterbalance the room’s soaring ceilings – the arrangement is arguably more isolated than intimate, all the more pleasant to savour the finer points of Pic’s elegant cooking. A concise menu celebrates her signature dishes, from ‘Berlingot’ – a light-hearted take on the tetrahedral-shaped candy – presented as delicate, triangular pasta parcels filled with gooey smoked Pélardon cheese and served with wild mushrooms; to Challans chicken, marinated in sake and dressed with hispi cabbage and diced razor clams.
These dishes form the backbone of the tasting menu – an obvious option especially when paired with matching wines, that include a few surprises such as Spanish ice cider, suggested by the informed and upbeat, leather-aproned sommelier.
Finish off with the rightfully celebrated mille-feuille, which arrives shrouded in a sweet white edible cloche, followed by a postprandial tipple in the hotel’s lobby bar under the dome of the building’s rotunda.
INFORMATION
ADDRESS
Four Seasons
10 Trinity Square
London EC3N 4AJ
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
Lauren Ho is the Travel Director of Wallpaper*, roaming the globe, writing extensively about luxury travel, architecture and design for both the magazine and the website. Lauren serves as the European Academy Chair for the World's 50 Best Hotels.
-
Lise Vester’s wavy bench for Muuto is a soothing take on outdoor seating
Designed for Danish brand Muuto, the stainless steel ‘Dream View Bench’ is an invitation to lie back and ponder the bigger picture
-
The newest car brand to arrive from China, Omoda is aimed squarely at the luxury sector
The Omoda 9 brings Chery’s Super Hybrid System to Europe’s roads, a smart but affordable luxury SUV with a long-legged range and a very high specification
-
Head to Puerto Escondido, a hot spot of eco-friendly hotels for the architecturally adventurous
As a bucolic cluster of beach towns evolves on Mexico’s Oaxacan coast, there’s hope that Puerto Escondido can prove a guiding light in responsible tourism; Eric Millman went to find out more
-
Twin Peaks’ Double R Diner is coming to London (for a day)
Mubi marks Twin Peaks’ 35th anniversary with pop-up diner and streaming release
-
Ukrainian restaurant Sino adds to London's diverse food culture with warming traditions that feel familiar yet new
Pronounced see-no, the new Ukrainian restaurant in Notting Hill, by Polina Sychova and chef Eugene Korolev, is built on the intimate relationship between people and nature – offering beauty in simplicity
-
Art, pasta and maritozzi: this is Locatelli at the National Gallery
Chef Giorgio Locatelli is the National Gallery’s new Italian master with the latest chapter of his beloved London restaurant
-
A local’s guide to London – Climax Books founder Isabella Burley’s favourite haunts
Creative consultant Isabella Burley credits growing up in the English capital with shaping who she is today. She takes us on a tour of some significant spots
-
This new London restaurant is a Greek island idyll on a plate
Myrtos by Asimakis is a flavoursome ode to Kefalonia, conceptualised by Vernon Viljoen and Block1:Design
-
Late-night spring shopping comes to London’s Chiltern Street
On Thursday 22 May, those in London can enjoy the Chiltern Street Spring Shopping Evening, including a programme of in-store drinks, offers and workshops
-
Fin-to-gill sophistication awaits at Tom Brown at The Capital
Expect ambitious cooking from the country’s most creative seafood chef
-
A first look inside Josephine Marylebone, a bistro-licious French restaurant
Following the success of Claude and Lucy Bosi’s first restaurant, in Chelsea, Josephine Marylebone is the second outpost, fitted with an oyster bar and a focus on classic French cuisine