Tollington’s is the new Spanish-inspired fish bar making a splash in north London
Tollington’s in Finsbury Park is a new opening from the team behind The Plimpsoll, championing Spanish-style dining and interiors

Fish bar Tollington’s might be located in the heart of London’s Finsbury Park, but it wouldn’t feel out of place in sunny Barcelona. That’s thanks to its simple seafood menu and the charming Spanish-inspired interiors that make this bright new opening look like it’s been around for decades. And, in some ways, it has.
Tollington’s, London
Tollington’s has, after all, been a staple of N4 for many years, albeit in a different guise. Once a neighbourhood fish and chip shop, it’s now the latest venture from Ed McIlroy of Four Legs – the team behind beloved local pub The Plimpsoll. As with his pub, McIlroy sought to protect and polish many of Tollington’s original features. ‘It’s important to retain beautiful old parts of London,’ he says. ‘I wanted the renovation to be as light as possible.’ The original emerald green frontage, for instance, remains intact. It features a gold serif lettering spelling out the restaurant’s name – a tribute to its predecessor.
The bar area
Inside, the interiors have been sensitively refurbished to capture the spirit of Spanish eateries. Take the tiled floor: ‘It was covered in 20 years of chip grease. But, after scrubbing it with bicarb and vinegar, I found that the tiles are beautiful and remind me of those in taverns in Madrid.’ With parents based in Spain, a destination he’s been visiting since childhood, McIlroy has long had an affinity with the country. ‘I love the no-nonsense informality of dining there – the way people eat standing up, for example. That’s what I want to encourage here.’
Tollington’s during its renovation process
The bar counter
As a result, Tollington’s has been cleverly divided into two halves. At the front, there’s a long narrow bar – ‘which reminds me of El Xampanyet in Barcelona’, says McIlroy – where diners are invited to enjoy a quick bite and, say, a glass of house wine while using wooden ledges to lean against. Formerly used by the chip-shop for potato peeling, the back room has been transformed into a characterful dining room decorated with round marble tables – another staple of Spanish restaurants. The pièce de résistance, however, is a beautiful mosaic by artist Anja Maye, depicting the view from McIlroy’s family home in Spain.
Mosaic by Anja Maye
Once painted sky blue, the entire space is now a sandy yellow. Akin to the colour that defined McIlroy’s mother’s kitchen when he was growing up, the shade complements the dark wooden shelving. ‘The wood has been repurposed from 19th-century church pews. Because it’s old, it looks like it could have been here for 50-odd years.’
One of the most intriguing things about the space is the assortment of art that hangs on the walls, which McIlroy has been collecting for years. It includes a painting by an outsider artist who lives in a fishing village along the northwest coast of Spain and a bespoke piece by London-based painter Harry Jones.
The restaurant area
And then there’s the food: it’s unfussy but fresh and flavourful. Devilled crab, smoked eel omelette, salty potatoes and sauces (made using the original chip-shop fryers), and pollock pil pil are among the standout plates, while flan and strawberries are served for dessert. ‘We’re not interested in garnishing anything too much,’ says McIlroy. ‘Expect simplicity – a piece of fish just cooked really well.’
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
Patatas bravas
Tomato salad
Tollington’s is located at 172 Tollington Park, London, @tollingtons.fishbar
Billie Brand is a London-based writer and editor. She has previously held positions at The Modern House, Matches, The Guardian and Observer, and contributed to titles including World of Interiors, i-D and The Face. Her work has a particular focus on beautifully designed and innovative spaces and places – and the forward-thinking people behind them.
-
Joel Quayson’s winning work for Dior Beauty at Arles considers the theme ‘Face-to-Face’ – watch it here
Quayson, who has won the 2025 Dior Photography and Visual Arts Award for Young Talents at Arles, imbues his winning work with a raw intimacy
-
Architect Erin Besler is reframing the American tradition of barn raising
At Art Omi sculpture and architecture park, NY, Besler turns barn raising into an inclusive project that challenges conventional notions of architecture
-
Boathouse Zaka is the radical renovation of an ageing structure into a light-filled workspace
OFIS Architects turns a traditional boathouse into a lakeside laboratory on one of Slovenia’s best-loved bodies of water
-
Industrial chic meets Thai heat at the new incarnation of a beloved London restaurant
Singburi 2.0 brings all the hot and sour thrills of the original haunt in cool Shoreditch surrounds
-
Here’s how Heathrow is reimagining airport chaos as ambient music
Grammy-nominated Jordan Rakei turns travel noise into a meditative soundtrack by sampling everything from baggage belts to jet engines
-
Is this London’s slickest burger joint?
Already proven in Paris, Dumbo’s smash-hit formula of precision, confidence, and simplicity arrives in Shoreditch – and yes, it’s worth the wait
-
Canal is a new west London restaurant with a suntrap terrace
At Canal, the new restaurant at Mason & Fifth’s Westbourne Park hotel, expect modern European breakfast, lunch and dinner from the team behind Crispin and Bistro Freddie
-
This hidden London culinary haven is a refreshing take on the steakhouse
Mr Porter, a new steakhouse, bar and lounge in central London's swish Mayfair, is a hidden haven of strong flavours and minimalist dining
-
A European-style café opens next to London’s Saatchi Gallery
Designed by Dion & Arles, Cafe Linea serves fresh pâtisseries, global dishes and sparkling wines in a stunning Grade II-listed setting
-
Anya Hindmarch’s Ice Cream Project is London’s tastiest (and weirdest) summer tradition
The cult pop-up has returned, transforming a Belgravia corner into a sleek, steel-clad shrine to British pantry nostalgia
-
The best bars in London for bartending greatness
From chic hotel cocktail classics to game-changing flavour combinations, our resident drinks correspondent, Neil Ridley, explores ten of the best bars in London