Under the loupe: catwalk jewellery special

Under the loupe: catwalk jewellery special

There’s always an artful element behind Arthur Arbesser’s collections. For S/S 2019, the Viennese designer looked to the works of Italian sculptor Fausto Melotti for inspiration, leaving small ceramic sculptures on the seats of his show guests. There was a sculptural sensibility behind Arbesser’s catwalk jewellery pieces too, as the designer collaborated with Milan-based architect and jeweller Nathalie Jean for the second time. Long asymmetric earrings hung from model’s ears, and swung like graphic mobiles or small pendulums, with some designs covered with a net-like layer of gold chainmail.

Photography: Henrik Blomqvist. Writer: Laura Hawkins

Milan Fashion Week
22 September
David Knowles winner at  2018 UK Rado Star Prize

A table informed by the natural beauty of the Giant’s Causeway, the strange landscape of Basalt columns that fringes the coast of County Antrim, Northern Ireland, has scooped its designer the 2018 UK Rado Star Prize. David Knowles, a 3D-design student from Northumbria University picked up £5,000 for his ‘tactile and intriguing’ work at the award ceremony in London this week. The theme of this year’s brief was ‘On Time/Time Off’, prompting the 10 finalists to explore designs that focus awareness of where time is spent. Could Knowles’ response be the answer for those of us unable to hotfoot it to Northern Ireland’s awe-inspiring shores to contemplate that perennial question?

Photography: Aylin Bayhan. Writer: Caragh McKay

2018 UK Rado Star Prize
21 September
Jil Sander’s S/S 2019 bracelet-come-coin purse

When designing the jewellery for Jil Sander’s S/S 2019 collection, creative directors Luke and Lucie Meier delved into the German house’s archives for inspiration. They looked to a sleek gold bangle design by Sander herself, and transformed the piece into a bracelet-come-coin purse which hangs delicately from the wrist. Uniform silhouettes inspired the brand’s ready-to-wear offering, encompassed in shapes riffing on workwear, surgeon’s scrubs and ballet dancer costumes. This utility is translated into jewellery which gels pure shapes with loose change-carrying comfort.

Writer: Laura Hawkins

Milan Fashion Week
20 September
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