It’s an age-old fine jeweller’s delight to include hidden elements in special pieces, just as Elie Top has done with his debut collection. Pictured (right) is Top in his maison's first salon, where a 1970s Ettore Sottsass chandelier pinpoints jewels in a glass vitrine built into the lacqured anthracite-top table by Maison Darré, while the custom made carpet reflects the house's logo.
What makes Elie Top’s eponymous jewellery designs so compelling is their secret nature. It’s an age-old fine jeweller’s delight to include hidden elements in special pieces, giving the wearer a unique sense of knowing something about their jewellery that only they know and that others can’t see.
To that effect, Top’s bracelets, earrings and necklaces contain an intricately worked element. But the covert nature of his articulated designs is not subtly secret. More in keeping with the horologist’s craft, once discovered, they take the wearer and the viewer in a new direction, suggesting a story that neither could possibly know.
As Vincent Darré, designer of Top’s Rue St Honore salon, featured in our September issue (W*198) , says: 'To capture the mood of Elie’s jewellery is to realise that it has an almost metaphysical nature – like the sign of your horoscope,' he explains. 'Planets and stars and the mechanical narrative make his designs not like jewellery but often more like horology. It’ a real universe.'
What makes Top’s eponymous jewellery designs so compelling is its secret nature
To that effect, Top’s bracelets, earrings and necklaces contain an intricately worked element
But the covert nature of his articulated designs is not subtly secret. More in keeping with the horologist’s craft, once discovered, they take the wearer and the viewer in a new direction, suggesting a story that neither could possibly know
The salon's 1930s frosted glass doors provide a grand entrance to his showroom.
As Vincent Darré, designer of Top’s Rue St Honore salon, featured in our September issue (W*198) , says: 'To capture the mood of Elie’s jewellery is to realise that it has an almost metaphysical nature – like the sign of your horoscope,' he explains
'Planets and stars and the mechanical narrative make his designs not like jewellery but often more like horology. It’ a real universe,' adds Darré
Top is perhaps best known for his role as Lanvin's accessories director, single-handedly changing the way we viewed costume jewellery in the noughties
'Mécaniques Célestes' unites Top's love of costume jewellery's bold statement-making power with the intricate mechanics of exceptional fine jewellery
The creative has dedicated his first big bang to cosmogony, working with kinetic metal spheres that concealed or revealed his precious stone globes inside
These one-of-a-kind orbs are then circled by a star galaxy of diamonds, fusing the geometric and Baroque
-
Highlights from the transporting Cruise 2026 showsThe Cruise 2026 season began yesterday with a Chanel show at Lake Como, heralding the start of a series of jet-setting, destination runway shows from fashion’s biggest houses
-
Behind the design of national pavilions in Venice: three studios to knowDesigning the British, Swiss and Mexican national pavilions at the Venice Architecture Biennale 2025 are three outstanding studios to know before you go
-
Premium patisserie Naya is Mayfair’s latest sweet spotHeritage meets opulence at Naya bakery in Mayfair, London. With interiors by India Hicks and Anna Goulandris, the patisserie looks good enough to eat
-
Art takes London: Tiffany & Co, Damien Hirst and artists take over Selfridges' windowsFour British contemporary artists celebrate Tiffany & Co's pioneering history with a series of storied window displays
-
Late summer jewels: what to wear at Golden HourLate summer signals a jewellery style-shift. These independent designers have got it covered
-
All smiles: How a grillz jewellery making class in London became an international hitWhat started as a passion project quickly exploded in popularity. We get the story behind the grillz-making workshop at Cockpit London
-
Emerging jewellery designers to get to knowThese independent, new and emerging jewellery designers and brands from New York to Paris are firmly on our radar
-
Jewellery designers share their most precious personal piecesA host of jewellers give us a peek at the jewellery which brings them joy and solace
-
Playing it cool: pearls are having a momentWe've been deep-diving into boutiques around the world to find the very best calcium carbonate in minute crystalline form. It seems jewellers have been busy rethinking pearls, with contemporary (and often affordable) results
-
Eternity rings for the modern coupleEternity rings, whether sleekly minimalist or sprinkled in diamonds, can be a chic and contemporary love token
-
Hair jewellery to covet and collectToday’s hair jewellery is both practical and pretty. We're pinning our hopes on these simple and elegant accessories
