Julien David: Three models dressed in an everyday uniform of jeans and t-shirts sat in the middle of the catwalk as guests arrived at Julien David’s S/S 2018 show. These looks set the tone and David’s interest in re-examining notions of the ordinary. Regular fit jeans, shirts and workwear jackets were all given an ingenious update through their materials and construction. Seams were bonded instead of being stitched, a cheap synthetic chiffon was upgraded to become water and wind proof through a specially developed treatment, and a super light Japanese denim was custom washed at David’s Tokyo base. Sneakers in vegetable-tanned cowhide competed the collection. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Julien David: Three models dressed in an everyday uniform of jeans and t-shirts sat in the middle of the catwalk as guests arrived at Julien David’s S/S 2018 show. These looks set the tone and David’s interest in re-examining notions of the ordinary. Regular fit jeans, shirts and workwear jackets were all given an ingenious update through their materials and construction. Seams were bonded instead of being stitched, a cheap synthetic chiffon was upgraded to become water and wind proof through a specially developed treatment, and a super light Japanese denim was custom washed at David’s Tokyo base. Sneakers in vegetable-tanned cowhide competed the collection. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Acne Studios: Guest unconventionally entered the presentation via the back entrance. After being escorted through the backstage area, attendees were put in the position of model as the show caller gave a queue to exit the catwalk. Out front, models seated on deck chairs and dressed in the collection watched as press took to the catwalk in a role reversal. Fashion-wise, highlights included longer length trenchcoats cut in linen the same colour of traditional Swedish summer houses. Overblown plaid checks reminiscent of tea towels covered voluminous high-waisted trousers. Tank tops and shrunken sweaters came crocheted, some with embroidered flowers. Slippers and elasticated sandals in an airy basket weave heighten the summer mood. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Acne Studios: Guest unconventionally entered the presentation via the back entrance. After being escorted through the backstage area, attendees were put in the position of model as the show caller gave a queue to exit the catwalk. Out front, models seated on deck chairs and dressed in the collection watched as press took to the catwalk in a role reversal. Fashion-wise, highlights included longer length trenchcoats cut in linen the same colour of traditional Swedish summer houses. Overblown plaid checks reminiscent of tea towels covered voluminous high-waisted trousers. Tank tops and shrunken sweaters came crocheted, some with embroidered flowers. Slippers and elasticated sandals in an airy basket weave heighten the summer mood. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Wooyoungmi: The notorious LA skater clan Z-Boys and their nonchalant approach to dressing inspired mother-and-daughter designers Mme Woo and Katie Chung this season. Relaxed tailoring dominated, with oversized suit jackets in virgin wool and soft cotton twills. These were often teamed with slouchy cargo pants and sneakers to heighten the laid back attitude. Japanese denim was bleached and worn head-to-toe. Elsewhere it was embroidered upon with a paisley bandana print. Other nods to skater style include a voluminous hoodie, while a plaid shirt came in gauzy double layers of acid yellow. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Wooyoungmi: The notorious LA skater clan Z-Boys and their nonchalant approach to dressing inspired mother-and-daughter designers Mme Woo and Katie Chung this season. Relaxed tailoring dominated, with oversized suit jackets in virgin wool and soft cotton twills. These were often teamed with slouchy cargo pants and sneakers to heighten the laid back attitude. Japanese denim was bleached and worn head-to-toe. Elsewhere it was embroidered upon with a paisley bandana print. Other nods to skater style include a voluminous hoodie, while a plaid shirt came in gauzy double layers of acid yellow. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
AMI: Designer Alexandre Mattiussi paid tribute to the famous Paris-Plages by creating his own magenta sand cityscape as a backdrop to his S/S 2018 show. The designer continued to build on his unique perspective on clothing for the real guy on the street, but this time focusing on the clothing worn by tourists that visit the city. A classic beige mac came with bright green contrast cuffs and was teamed with an Hawaiian shirt, black trousers, topped off with socks and sandals. Other standouts included colour blocked western shirts, trousers and jeans with deep 6in turn ups, and loosely cut bermudas that came in denim, thick stripes and full on florals. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
AMI: Designer Alexandre Mattiussi paid tribute to the famous Paris-Plages by creating his own magenta sand cityscape as a backdrop to his S/S 2018 show. The designer continued to build on his unique perspective on clothing for the real guy on the street, but this time focusing on the clothing worn by tourists that visit the city. A classic beige mac came with bright green contrast cuffs and was teamed with an Hawaiian shirt, black trousers, topped off with socks and sandals. Other standouts included colour blocked western shirts, trousers and jeans with deep 6in turn ups, and loosely cut bermudas that came in denim, thick stripes and full on florals. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Pierre Hardy: This season Pierre Hardy looked to the work of Ellsworth Kelly for inspiration. Knitted sock boots with moulded rubber soles and basketball high-tops came with graphic block colour sections reminiscent of the artist’s paintings and sculptures. Elsewhere, slippers and elasticated sneakers appeared in decadent silk, printed with abstract shapes. The designer also continued to explore shoe hybrids with striking results: two different styles of brogue where seamlessly spliced together, while a classic loafer last merged with a Birkenstock-style sandal shape.
Pierre Hardy: This season Pierre Hardy looked to the work of Ellsworth Kelly for inspiration. Knitted sock boots with moulded rubber soles and basketball high-tops came with graphic block colour sections reminiscent of the artist’s paintings and sculptures. Elsewhere, slippers and elasticated sneakers appeared in decadent silk, printed with abstract shapes. The designer also continued to explore shoe hybrids with striking results: two different styles of brogue where seamlessly spliced together, while a classic loafer last merged with a Birkenstock-style sandal shape.
Mackintosh: For his second season working with Mackintosh, designer Kiko Kostadinov continued to rework the archetypal wardrobe by playing with proportions, minimal construction and unisex fit. Suits resembled uniforms with piping aligning the boxy jackets and wide-leg trousers, while weather-proof outwear came in a feather-light translucent nylon that challenged the perceptions of the classic mac overcoat. Elsewhere knitted jumpers had linear silk details that cut through the body, and jackets with double-layered panels were tied at the hips. A new line of bags crafted from rubberised cotton collection completed the collection.
Mackintosh: For his second season working with Mackintosh, designer Kiko Kostadinov continued to rework the archetypal wardrobe by playing with proportions, minimal construction and unisex fit. Suits resembled uniforms with piping aligning the boxy jackets and wide-leg trousers, while weather-proof outwear came in a feather-light translucent nylon that challenged the perceptions of the classic mac overcoat. Elsewhere knitted jumpers had linear silk details that cut through the body, and jackets with double-layered panels were tied at the hips. A new line of bags crafted from rubberised cotton collection completed the collection.
