Beauty notes: the grooming trends from spring/summer 2017
Victoria Beckham: The surprising must-have from Victoria Beckham’s S/S 2017 collection were the light as air, crushed silk velvet dresses, shown in peppermint, lilac and orange. This texture was transposed onto faces by Pat McGrath, who used jewel-toned eyeshadow from Beckham’s capsule make-up collection with Estée Lauder, to create a block of colour covering the lid and extending outward, worn with dewy skin and slicked-back hair with a centre parting. Writer: Alice Shaughnessy, photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
DKNY: Pat McGrath started by creating an ultra-natural no makeup look, focusing on perfected skin tone, with neat brows and a healthy glow. As a nod to the collection’s futuristic theme, McGrath amped up the industry’s current obsession – a bold lip. Lips were lined and painted with deep brown and burgundy colours, and gold glitter was pressed on top for a dramatic, sparkling effect
Coach: In a collection that combined elements of classic Americana, rock’n’roll studs and delicate floral prints, the make-up look provided a synthesis. The Coach girl this season is a bit tougher, and more nonchalant. Thick, black eyeliner was smudged along the lower lash line, balanced with a light, natural brow. Each model’s natural hair texture was emphasised, for a casual, lived-in look
Mary Katrantzou: Another iteration of the bold lip, the beauty look at Mary Katrantzou focused solely on neon pouts in pink and orange. For balance, the rest of the face was left completely free of any make-up, save for a little powder to remove shine from the complexion, curled eyelashes to open up the eye, and combed brows to frame the face. As a further contrast to the precisely applied lipstick, hair was washed and left to air dry, with minimal product to bring out natural texture
No 21: At No 21, an exaggerated take on the cat eye ruled the runway, with liner thickly applied on upper and lower lids and extended dramatically at the outer corner. Instead of the conventional black, artists used a deep, shimmery blue, showing again that colour will be an important trend in makeup collections next summer
Christopher Kane: During the 1940s, the British government issued advice to women on how to adapt their clothing during times of rationing. This advice, titled Make, Do and Mend, was the theme for Kane’s S/S 2017 collection. A corresponding beauty look paired neat, brushed eyebrows with smudgy eyeshadow. Hair was slightly greasy, with choppy fringes that looked as if the girls had been busy with the kitchen scissors
Versus: At Versace’s edgier sister brand Versus, a bold eye in saffron yellow was applied from the inner corner of the eye and extended almost to the hairline in a broad brushstroke. Here too, the eye was so strong that the remainder of the face was left completely natural with minimal intervention in either hair or makeup
Fendi: At Fendi, Peter Philips has been experimenting with different liner techniques for a few seasons now, and this time around he developed a graphic take on the cat eye. Focusing solely on the inner and outer corners, black liner was used to elongate the eye, while the middle of the lid was left completely bare. As a contrast to the precisely lined lids, lips were primed and rose gold glitter was patted on. Hair was worn either pulled back or in bunches, to show off Fendi’s latest must-have, brightly coloured hairclips
MSGM: MSGM is a youthful label, best known for its bright colours and bold patterns. As a result, the beauty look was designed not to compete with the riotous colours on the runway. Skin was fresh, with a dewy glow, and minimal makeup. Models sported blunt fringes, while the rest of the hair was texturised along the lengths
Haider Ackermann: Artist Lynsey Alexander adorned faces at Haider Ackermann with graphic liner in a bold colour. Using Mac Chromaline, she traced the inner corner of the models’ eyes in white. For the outer corner, she painted a dramatic yellow cut-out cat-eye shape. Hair stylist Kamo Katsuya experimented with spiky extensions, pulling the hair away from the face and finishing the look with a ribbon
Acne Studios: Acne Studio’s focused on lips by painting them in a strong, unusual colour: a silvery, dark lilac worn on an otherwise bare face. Unusually too, for a spring/summer season, the hair was precisely straightened and severe
Rochas: There was a girly yet rockabilly feel at Rochas, where Paul Hanlon created a slightly messy, curled fringe that added extra emphasis to the bold brow makeup. His team drew over the models’ brows with a dark pencil to sharpen the natural shape.
Hermès: The beauty look at Hermès was a softer take on the colourful liner trend. Here, dark blue eyeshadow was smudged along the lower lid, whilst a candy pink colour was painted across the upper, echoing the delicate colour palette of the collection. There was no obvious styling of the models’ hair, other than to pull the lengths away from the face to bring extra focus to the colourful eye