Everything the Wallpaper* style team is looking forward to at Men’s Fashion Month, from guest stars to swan songs

This evening, 14 January, the first runway shows of the A/W 2026 menswear season will take place at Florence’s Pitti Uomo, heralding the start of a fashion month that will also make stops in Milan and Paris in the coming weeks (the menswear fair’s guest designers Shinayakozuka and Hed Mayner will both show this evening). While the schedule is certainly quieter than the blockbuster womenswear shows in September – over 15 creative directors made their debuts at fashion’s major houses across the season – there will still be plenty of notable moments, including Jonathan Anderson’s sophomore menswear collection for Dior (it will be intriguing to see him hone his vision now he’s settled) and the swan song of Véronique Nichanian, artistic director of Hermès’ men’s universe, who is leaving after a near-four-decade-long tenure.

In anticipation, ahead of the season’s start this evening, we asked the Wallpaper* style teams about the moments they are looking forward to this Men’s Fashion Month.

Jason Hughes

Jason Hughes is Wallpaper’s Fashion & Creative Director, overseeing all style content – from fashion and beauty to watches and jewellery – as well as leading the visual direction of the magazine.

‘There will be plenty of standout moments across fashion month: I’m always excited to see what’s next at Prada, and Jonathan Anderson’s sophomore menswear show for Dior will no doubt be a highlight (it’s been exciting seeing his first collection end up in stores this month). But this season I’m going to relish the quieter moments, too: like Setchu in Milan, where Satoshi Kuwata – who is based locally but was born in Kyoto, Japan – will hold his second runway show on the city’s fashion schedule. His considered approach, which melds a background on Savile Row with design flourishes drawn from his native Japan, always makes for an intriguing show. As an aside, I loved his first-ever fragrances, launched late last year: named after times of the day, they reimagine his personal rituals as scents, from morning ‘genmaicha’ green tea to ‘Friday 2AM Tatami’, inspired by the scent of Japanese sleeping mats. I’ll be sure to be wearing mine on show day.’

Fashion & Beauty Features Director

Fashion & Beauty Features Director

Jack Moss is Wallpaper’s fashion features director, reporting for the magazine’s digital and print editions – from international runway shows to profiling the style world’s leading figures.

‘After the near-overwhelming number of debuts at womenswear this past September, I am relishing the relative calm of menswear: the somewhat reduced schedule, particularly in Milan, means there is more time to digest what we are seeing (the various appointments and presentations also allow an opportunity to view things up close). As for the highlights, in Milan it will always be Prada: for me, there's not quite another show like it – the clarity of vision that Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons have honed across their partnership has led to collections which again and again set the tone for the season ahead (and, thanks to OMA’s always-transporting show sets, they come with plenty of spectacle).

‘In Paris, I look forward – like Jason – to Jonathan Anderson’s second menswear show for Dior, which promises even more theatre, though I am also excited to see the latest offerings from Willy Chavarria (the American designer will continue to show in Paris this season), Kiko Kostadinov, IM Men and Rick Owens, all showing across the week. There will be a poignant goodbye, too: on Saturday (17 January), Véronique Nichanian, artistic director of Hermès’ men’s universe, will step away from her role after almost four decades (I spent a memorable day in Paris interviewing her for the March 2023 Style Issue of Wallpaper*). Shifting the show to the evening spot, it will be a no-doubt fitting send-off for a record-breaking career (she is the longest-serving creative director of a fashion house) defined by both critical and commercial success. We’ll be raising a glass.’

Orla Brennan

Orla Brennan is a London-based fashion and culture writer. At Wallpaper*, her ‘Uprising’ column is a monthly profile of the style world’s rising stars.

‘This men’s season I’m most excited for Pitti Uomo, which I’m attending for Wallpaper* for the very first time. Kicking off fashion month, the biannual menswear fair is staged within Florence’s stately 14th-century Fortezza da Basso, where countless brands – including Herno, Caruso and Brunello Cucinelli – will present their collections. The latter hosted its famous dinner last night, and I was excited to witness the decadent spread first-hand.

‘As for the shows, Paris-based Hed Mayner is in the spotlight with the headline guest designer slot, staging his presentation in a midcentury building close to Santa Maria Novella station on Wednesday evening. His show will be followed by two rising Japanese talents: Shinya Kozuka, known for his painterly collections, and Soshi Otsuki, the winner of the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers in 2025. A strong Japanese presence at the fair continues through tangential events during the week, including the first official Sebiro Sanpo (suit walk) in Italy organised with fabric mill Vitale Barberis Canonico. The event originates in Tokyo, a financial hub and home to Japan’s “salarymen”, and sees hundreds of suit lovers gather to walk the streets in their finest tailoring.

‘As for the rest of the men’s shows, I’m always excited to see what Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada have been dreaming up together. Their show takes place on Sunday (18 January) in Milan in the vast Deposito building adjoining the brand’s namesake foundation in Milan – a space they’ll no doubt transform once again into another surprising, imaginative world.’

Mary Cleary

The former beauty and grooming editor of Wallpaper*, New York-born Mary Cleary – a writer and consultant – now oversees the magazine’s beauty content as a contributor.

‘The menswear shows typically have less striking beauty moments than their womenswear counterparts – bar a slew of more avant-garde designers, from Rick Owens to Junya Watanabe, which will hopefully lend some intrigue – though the fresh and clean complexions that will likely be seen on the majority of runways feel fitting for the early weeks of the year (Prada, Dries Van Noten and Hermès always do this well, drawing from their own beauty lines). As someone who wears plenty of menswear, I'll be looking at the fashion, too: Dries Van Noten is a favourite (I loved Julian Klausner’s first menswear show last season, and I’m sure this one will strike a similar balance of the romantic and real), while Kiko Kostadinov is always interesting – after a brilliant co-ed show off-schedule at his London studio late last year (inspired by his dog, Dante), I’m excited to see what he has in store.’