Milan Fashion Week S/S 2017 menswear editor’s picks

Bertoni 1949: The leather goods brand took to the skies for S/S 2017 with hand painted airplane motifs soaring over travel bags to briefcases. A new addition to the collection came in the form of a luxurious leather backpack

Woolrich: This season Woolrich team up with Australian cycle brand Deus on their first bike. The E-bike is equally at home being ridden in the city as it is in the great outdoors. The bike also comes with a saddle and handlebars made by Brooks

Emporio Armani: Giorgio Armani called his Emporio show ’a tense and sharp collection’ fit for a ’pulsating metropolis’. It was indeed sharp, and focused on its cool urban mission thanks to a terrific, steady palette of always-right navy blue, denim blue and sage green. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Moncler Gamme Bleu: Mosquito netted tents lined Moncler’s grass-lined runway for a Boy Scout camping-themed show. Photography: Antonio Camera

CP Company: The original Italian sportswear brand continued to push the boundaries of outerwear this season. Fabric innovation was high on the agenda with the introduction of a technical linen that was waterproof yet retains the fabrics characteristic irregularities and organic appearance. This season also saw the addition of trousers and other separates to the brand’s outerwear lexicon

Tod’s: Set in the grounds of the grand Villa Necchi Campiglio, Tod’s presented a collection of fine menswear staples, giving each a luxury makeover. A field jacket made of the finest leather came brushed with colour reminiscent of a Mark Rothko painting, while the rubber pebbled sole of the iconic Gommino moccasin appeared as a motif on a black suede weekend bag

Missoni: The Italian house had a great Guatemalan moment for next spring, borrowing colourful upholstery-like fabrics for its oversized shorts, chic tank tops and multi-hue woven Huarache sandals. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Boglioli: The brand’s moody colour palette of sea greens, rust browns and slate grey was reverberated in the grandiose ceiling of Palazzo Archinto. Photography: Antonio Camera

Bottega Veneta: Tomas Maier’s S/S 2017 accessory collection looked even more dynamic close-up. Photography: Antonio Camera

Rossignol: This season Rossignol moved from the slopes and headed to the court. High performance fabrics such as tech nylon, neoprene and parachute poplin were used to elegant effect on super light down jackets, Bermuda shorts and raincoats

Santoni: Shoe brand Santoni employed the help of critic and curator Angelo Flaccavento to create an intriguing installation, where viewers looked through a series of peep holes to view the collection. The iconic Santoni double buckle appeared on boots and as a clip for fridges, while slender lace-ups came with hand-sewn soles and slippers morphed into espadrilles

Prada: Mrs Prada’s leisure luxe show theme carried through to the sporting set and industrial mesh invitation. Photography: Antonio Camera

Caruso: Italian tailoring brand Caruso continued to push the boundaries of luxury menswear for S/S 2017. Standout items included a softly tailored jacket hand painted with a flora motif and a series of broken suits that clashed bold checks and stripes

Philipp Plein: The ‘Sportsworld Spectacular’ show came complete with Harlem Globetrotters, 20 cheerleaders, three mascots and one rapper in Busta Rhymes. Photography: Antonio Camera

Bally: Creative director Pablo Coppola described his S/S 2017 outing as ’Happy luxury’. The collections mood board was bristling with a host of disparate references from Bianca Jagger in the 1970s to David Hockney and Daidō Moriyama’s graphic works. Standouts included printed silk shirts covered in motifs inspired by achieve Bally advertisements and candy coloured accessories

Neil Barrett: Milan’s king of cool sportswear refracted his always-athletic lens through the 1970s throwing together great suede and leather intarsia jackets and cool high-waisted stretch pants. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Salvatore Ferragamo: Ferragamo introduced ‘Tramezza’, its new made to measure shoe services in Milan’s stylish Giacomo Bistrot restaurant

Brunello Cucinelli: The designer continued his exploration and evolution of menswear staples for S/S 2017. Blazers in the finest fabrics were paired with easy, drawstring trousers, while the humble t-shirt and polo were elevated to luxury heights. A pale grey bomber made in what looked like suede corduroy was a standout

Kiton: Alongside showcasing a collection that focused on relaxed lightweight suiting, Napolese tailoring band Kiton expanded their handmade footwear line with the addition of several new styles. Standouts included a selection of hand dyed shoes making no pair the same

Dolce & Gabbana: Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana looked to the world of music for S/S 2017’s inspiration, taking us on a journey from the Jazz Age to 1980’s Hip-Hop. Oversized streetwear tees and sweatshirts were mashed up with boxy jackets and slim cropped trousers, while graphic prints depicting cassette tapes and saxophones hit all the right notes. Standout accessories included boom box bags, chunky sneakers and print covered headphones. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Dolce & Gabbana: Nine giant sized metal frond, standing lamps lined the runway at Dolce & Gabbana

Church’s: The cobbler revisited its iconic Shanghai shoe by adding canvas details alongside introducing a boot style in two-tone leather

Massimo Piombo: The designer’s shop, the former studio of prolific architect Gae Aulenti, was filled with colourful flowers to match his signature peacock tailoring

Giuseppe Zanotti: Building on the brand’s luggage line, Giuseppe Zanotti introduced a collection of sleek neoprene back packs this season, while shoes and sneakers came covered in camo print fit for an urban survivalist

Ports 1961: Milan Vukmirovic kicked off Men’s Fashion Week in Milan with a presentation in an old warehouse down the street from the Prada Foundation on the city’s outskirts

Andrea Pompilio: Big stripes are not big fashion news but Milan-based fashion designer Andrea Pompilio nonetheless made them feel very fresh with his mix of scales, configurations and fabrics, throwing together silk bottoms, knit tops and sturdy cotton Bermudas in always cool-hues of graphic black and white