Mood board: Why have there been no great women artists? This was the striking question posed by the art historian Linda Nochlin that welcomed us to the Dior show. As one French journalist duly noted, Camille Claudel, Louise Bourgeois, Frida Khalo and Georgia O’Keefe might have disagreed – but it certainly explained the show’s mood and inspiration. This season, Maria Grazia Chiuri was inspired by French-American sculptor Niki de St Phalle and her fellow female artists from the sixties. In a concrete setting of organic shapes and mirror mosaic decorations, the Italian designer presented her woman – part Niki, part Edie Sedgwick.
Best in show: Chiuri seems intent on making her ‘we all should be feminists’ message evolve, this time by opening the show with a striped t-shirt bearing Nochlin’s provocative statement. While the question about whether feminism can be reduced to a slogan still remains, the piece is sure to be a commercial success. As will the patchwork jeans, sequined mini and maxi dresses – a nod to the lesser-known Marc Bohan period at Dior – and especially the accessories. Chiuri’s flair for irresistible shoes really came through in this shows. Flat, lace-up, knee-high boots and Mary Janes (lovely in their patent leather version, even lovelier in mirrored mosaic) are sure to appeal to Millenial customers, which, since Chiuri’s appointment as art director, seem to be the core clientele of the French house.
Team work: Michel Gaubert’s soundtracks have for a long time been key to the success of Dior’s shows, and this time was no exception. Gaubert dug up as fine – and kitsch – a selection of 60s instrumental pieces as there ever was. Particularly inspired was his use of the score in William Klein’s 1966 cult film Qui êtes-vous, Polly Maggoo? (Who Are You, Polly Maggoo?). The ecclesiastic-inspired music worked as well with Anna Wintour gazing at Chiuri’s golden mosaic-dresses as it did with the maximalist fashion editrixes admiring the metal dresses in the movie. Only Gaubert could show that kind of humour.
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Fuseproject has given form to Kind Humanoid, an AI-driven bipedal robot that wants to helpHuman assistance robot Kind Humanoid steps out for the first time, shaped by Yves Béhar and Fuseproject and powered by AI, with a friendly face and mechanised limbs that can perform a variety of physical tasks
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‘Fashion or art? It doesn’t have to be one or the other’: 16Arlington’s Marco Capaldo on turning curator for new London showA deeply felt musing on the idea of memory, 16Arlington creative director Marco Capaldo unites with Almine Rech for an exhibition at Frieze No.9 Cork Street which features artists from Andy Warhol and John Giorno to rising stars Rhea Dillon, George Rouy and Jesse Pollock
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Take a deep dive into Norway's art scene with the Lofoten International Art FestivalKite tails, lingonberries and woven islands: the Lofoten International Art Festival unveils its 18th edition
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Summer games, from pétanque to pool floats, get a fashionable spinFrom a luxurious pétanque set to pool floats and playing cards, summer games and toys from the world’s best-known fashion houses
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‘Modern beauty’: Pieter Mulier on his new vision for AlaïaAs creative director of Alaïa, Belgian designer Pieter Mulier honours the timeless vision of the maison’s founder while rewriting the past anew. Here, speaking to Jack Moss, he tells the story behind his first year at the house
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Palace unites with Rapha to celebrate inaugural Tour de France FemmesMarking the first time women will compete in the historic cycling race since the late 1980s, this new collaboration sees Palace Skateboards and Rapha create uniforms for both on and off the bike – including an ‘outlandish’ pair of Crocs
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NYC fashion exhibitions to see right nowNew York City fashion exhibitions to add to your cultural calendar, as style stages a stunning takeover at The Met and more
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Mariella Bettineschi’s feminist artworks survey guests at Dior A/W 2022 showAs guests gathered at Dior’s A/W 2022 womenswear show venue in Paris, sets of duplicated eyes stared down at them from the artworks of Mariella Bettineschi
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Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022: Chanel to Miu MiuIn this extended report, Wallpaper* updates you live from Paris Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as runway events unfold
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Scene-stealing runway sets from A/W 2022 menswear showsA Kubrickian space odyssey at Prada; a recreation of the Pont Alexandre III in Paris at Dior; and colourful, artist-created flags at Loewe: explore the best runway sets from the A/W 2022 menswear shows
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Dior recreates Paris bridge, Pont Alexandre III, for A/W 2022 showDior recreated Paris’ landmark bridge, Pont Alexandre III, for its A/W 2022 menswear show, which took place on 21 January 2022, the date of Christian Dior’s birthday
