Moncler Gamme Bleu S/S 2015

Moncler's merry fashion ride stopped off at a boxing ring this season, where four bare-chested men sporting iron-cut abs, silky shorts and knee-length, lace-up leather boots presided over the action. The gleaming satin fabric and oversized short silhouette became two defining features of creative director Thom Browne's spring Moncler treaty. Both were treated in countless iterations: the short came in cotton poplin, seersucker, linen, striped cotton, plaid boucle and traditional boxing satin with yolked edges, while the satin fabric covered trenches, anoraks and hooded capes, not to mention trimming on everything down to the boots and sock stripes. All of it was layered on with the more-is-more, extravagant signature for which Browne at Moncler is known. This fashion partnership deserves credit for creating a sharply defined DNA - the entire collection was delineated in the red, white and blue of its logo, or in pretty grey and white - and sticking to it. Now its fixed fashion week formula is poised, perhaps to morph into something new. We're waiting with suspense to see what that might be.

Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

JJ Martin