No 21 A/W 2019 Milan Fashion Week Men’s

No 21 A/W 2019 Milan Fashion Week Men’s

Mood board: Mid-way through the show the meaning of the abstract black and white image on the front of the invitation came into focus. It was the hazy image of a male torso as if solarised or bleached out by the sun. Its quiet sensuality epitomised what Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s label is known for: a natural, strong masculine eroticism. A subtle play on revealing the male body. Embracing the ambiguities of life right now.

Best in show: Throughout, a sombre, rigorous silhouette was rendered in a range of sensual textures: a glossy radzmir silk coat; a leather duffel with neoprene lining; the brightness of a white singlet worn underneath a fine tomato red mohair sweater. The designer spoke of reshaping the wardrobe. His work is placed in the gap between the faddish eccentricity of sportswear and the stuffy, seriousness of tailored sprezzatura. There are very direct clothes here, inspired by a sensitive review of masculinity. From the jackets, tailored to run against plunging necklines of double tank tops to low-cut sweaters worn layered, an eroticism buzzes through the collection. Slim trousers, coats and shirts are cut in leather. Heavy satin parkas are ruched at the waist with rope ties.

Sound bite: ‘I thought the time has come not only to jumble up references but also to construct a type of apparel that can bypass all classifications, just as are doing now in everyday life – from millennials to the men of subsequent generations,’ Dell’Acqua said. ‘It’s a male journey into a wardrobe that’s been recast.’ §

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