Marni A/W 2018
Francesco Risso collaborates with The Aluminum Group for his eclectic menswear offering
Mood board: the abstract notes to the collection reflect the shift at the label since Francesco Risso became creative director in 2016. In less than two years he has dialled up the quirk of Marni’s founder Consuelo Castiglioni to zanier proportions. His latest menswear collection channelled the boyish, nomadic mood of S/S 2018. The eclectic show was a call to action to keep our inner child alive, to explore the boundaries of distinction. There was a riot of disproportions. Clothes were layered and in a random, haphazard style. Knits were purposely home-spun; trousers were big. Prints clashed. Indian ikat, Chinese brocade, Masai textile and English tweeds were all in the mix, constructing what Risso called a ‘tribe of worlds’ backstage.
Team work: Risso collaborated with the Chicago-based chamber-pop outfit The Aluminum Group. Centred on brothers John and Frank Navin, they named themselves in homage to the line of furniture designed by Charles and Ray Eames. On Instagram, Frank introduces the collaboration by floating in the air surrounded by household objects. His drawings of animals, musical instruments and furniture (naturally, a lot of chairs) feature across the collection on suits and shirting too.
Scene setting: the space was set up by like a surrealist scrap yard. (Guests were pre-warned of the gravel floor that awaited them.) Old suitcases, vintage radiators and oil drums to piles of wood, hoovers and even a stuffed giraffe acted as make-shift chairs. Amid this cacophony of curated refuse, the show opened with an excerpt of 'Voiceless Essay', the experimental track composed in 1987 by American musician John Cage.