Dior Homme A/W 2017

Kris Van Assche looked to music and moshpits for his youthful 'HarDior' collection

Models in font of a white wall in a row, black and red clothing with a couple wearing sunglasses
(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Mood board: Now in his tenth year at Dior Homme, Kris Van Assche made his own distinctive contribution to this season’s developing theme: a reconciliation between the atelier and the street. Ever mindful of the house’s inimitable founder, here Monsieur Dior’s lucky necklace was reinvented as a key chain. Assche’s teenage years were reflected too in the fitted cut of jackets and roomier trousers. The collection had splashes of new wave, ravers and gabber boys. ‘HarDior’ was emblazoned across the front of bucket caps and sweatshirts. It was both hard in mood and energy.

Best in show: Pinstripe cloth was used for utilitarian streetwear shapes. Suiting was youthful. As with last season, the clothes left the mark of their maker. Basting stitches on tailored jackets were multiplied and collaged. Another two-button jacket featured metal tacks, fanned across the front. There was a confidence and familiarity to the look.

Team work: New York-based artist Dan Witz’s hyper-real moshpit paintings featured prominently as a signal of the birth of HarDior style. One of the pioneers of the street art movement, Witz has been making work since the late 1970s. Like Assche, his influences come from music, especially the transgressive power of rock'n'roll. After a brief stint as a musician, Witz returned to making art fulltime, inspired by the epic scenes painted by Brueghel and Bosch. His ‘Moshpit’ series embodies the magnificent tension of being present in the moment yet totally abstracted from what is happening. His paintings were printed onto a number of looks, bursting with vigour. 

Dior Homme A/W 2017. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans

Three models in black clothing posing against a white backdrop

(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Three models in orange and black clothing against a white backdrop

(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

Three models against a white backdrop two with bucket hats and one looking down at the floor

(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

A group of models against a white backdrop in dark clothing

(Image credit: Jason Lloyd-Evans)

London based writer Dal Chodha is editor-in-chief of Archivist Addendum — a publishing project that explores the gap between fashion editorial and academe. He writes for various international titles and journals on fashion, art and culture and is a contributing editor at Wallpaper*. Chodha has been working in academic institutions for more than a decade and is Stage 1 Leader of the BA Fashion Communication and Promotion course at Central Saint Martins. In 2020 he published his first book SHOW NOTES, an original hybrid of journalism, poetry and provocation.