As Jil Sander continues to conduct its ongoing search for a new creative director, the in-house design team is charged with carrying on the flame of the house's founding designer. For pre-collections that is a non-issue but for the runway, where a kinetic sort of energy is required to inspire viewers in a live audience, it can present more of a challenge. Certainly all of the clothes we saw on this Winter runway were beautifully cut and crafted, doing justice to the twin pillar trademarks of this purist-minded brand. They featured Sander's signature clean lines, but were softly updated with tucks across shift dress fronts, or in the new longer dress shape that was taught across the hips but loose around the chest. The palette was a range of deeply muted pastels, as if only a drop of sea green, lavender or pink grapefruit had been dropped into a pool of white ink. As a whole, the collection was subtle, soft and at times lovely. But we look forward to the days when a Jil Sander show jolts us out of our seats into the wonderful surprises of avant-garde design.
Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
-
Pedro y Juana's take on architecture: 'We want to level the playing field’Mexico City-based architects Padro y Juana bring their transdisciplinary, participatory approach to the Mexico pavilion at the Venice Architecture Biennale 2025; find out more
-
The Sialia 45 cruiser is a welcome addition to the new generation of electric boatsPolish shipbuilder Sialia Yachts has launched the Sialia 45, a 14m all-electric cruiser for silent running
-
Tokyo design studio We+ transforms microalgae into coloursCould microalgae be the sustainable pigment of the future? A Japanese research project investigates
-
Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023: Fendi to PradaFrom Prada’s exploration of archetypal menswear garments to JW Anderson’s much-anticipated debut in the city, the best of Milan Fashion Week Men’s S/S 2023, as it happens
-
Milan Fashion Week A/W 2022: Prada to Bottega VenetaIn this extended report, Scarlett Conlon reports live from the Milan Fashion Week A/W 2022 shows, with rolling coverage as they take place on the runway
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from A/W 2022 menswear showsA Kubrickian space odyssey at Prada; a recreation of the Pont Alexandre III in Paris at Dior; and colourful, artist-created flags at Loewe: explore the best runway sets from the A/W 2022 menswear shows
-
Scene-stealing runway sets from S/S 2022 womenswear showsFrom giant roulette wheels to Olympic diving boards and multi-city synchronized extravaganzas – our pick of the best fashion show sets from S/S 2022 womenswear
-
Milan Fashion Week S/S 2022: ‘Fendace' to FerragamoFashion Week returns to form in the Italian home of style and design. Here is everything you need to know about Milan Fashion Week S/S 2022
-
Jil Sander on the purist principles of her Uniqlo collaborationIn celebration of +J, Wallpaper's quality maniac-at-large Nick Vinson speaks to Jil Sander about her upcoming A/W 2020 collaboration with Uniqlo
-
The aesthetic intimacy of Jil Sander's S/S 2021 collectionCreative directors Lucie and Luke Meier on the ‘purity of image' behind the brand's pared-back spring film, directed by Stephen Kidd
-
Giorgio Armani A/W 2020 Milan Fashion Week Women's
