Editor’s picks from Milan Fashion Week S/S 2015: womenswear collections
Maurizio Pecoraro: Fashion designer Maurizio Pecoraro has been collecting ceramics from Danish designer Bjorn Wiinblad for over 20 years. His personal collection of ceramics was displayed together with his new fashion collection inside De Padova - one of our favourite design shops in milan
Calvin Klein Collection: Minimalism at its best, hanging within the brand's Milan HQ
Jimmy Choo: Beautifully presented within a graphic set, the latest Choo highlights of denim, metallic leathers and fringing had us longing for next summer
Dusan: Softly draped, tonal layering and raw-edged fabrications headlined Dusan's sportif mode for summer
L'F: Young footwear designers Licia Florio and Francio Ferrari staged their first presentation during Milan fashion week at art gallery Lorenzelli Arte
L'F: Inspired by Italy's famed Hotel Il Pellicano, the collection was shown in a space filled with blown up photographs that Ferrari snapped on location in Porto Ercole
Arthur Arbesser: We got a special preview of Austrian designer Arthur Arbesser's presentation that took place in a former women's liberation headquarters and current parking lot in Milan
Arthur Arbesser: Curated by architect Luca Cipelletti, the sprawling space featured a static installation, live models mingling with 20 analogical photographs by artist Carlo Valsecchi plus a video that Arbesser shot in Vienna with 1980s supermodel Cordula Reyer
Caterina Gatta: Rome-based Caterina Gatta has recently shifted her focus, from one-of-a-kind fashion pieces crafted from vintage fabrics, to ready-to-wear clothing that can be produced in scaled quantities. But the impact is still noteworthy. Here are two intriguing looks from her newest spring collection
Bulgari: Presented in Bulgari's namesake hotel in Milan, the collection dazzled with jewel-tone bags in, bespoke diamond pave set sunglasses and silk scarves of a higher thread count then ever before
Valextra: Álvaro González's latest collection for the house of Valextra was an exercise in luxury and elegance
MSGM: A detail of the bead embroidery that Massimo Giorgetti used for his beautifully executed spring collection
Brian Atwood: Footwear designer Brian Stwood collaborated with New York-based Pop Art illustrator Donald Drawbertson on a capsule collection covered in playful lipstick motifs
Paolo Battaglia and Antonio Ponte: Formerly designers for labels such as Missoni and Ken Scott, the pair have launched their own collection for the first time. Entitled 'GEM', all 45 pieces feature one-of-a-kind bead, crystal and sequin embroideries designed by the duo themselves
Gabriele Colangelo: Fabric development has always been at the heart of this designer's practice. For Milan fashion week, this was again ingrained into his collection and exemplified Colangelo's refreshing talent
Tod's: Alessandra Facchinetti turned her show space into a trellised greenhouse for spring
Camera Nazionale dei Buyers: We love the mini vocabulary book that the Camera Nazionale dei Buyers (the buyer subset of fashion week's governing body) printed to help explain the finer points of Italian style. Continuing the garden theme, the party they threw in the courtyard of the ex Monastero delle Umiliate wasn't bad either
Moncler: We all live in a yellow submarine… Neoprene-clad mannequins were perfectly poised for sub sea level exploration at Moncler
Furla: Making its icon more iconic, primary coloured paint splattered limited-editions of Furla's 'Candy' bag
Agnona: Inspired by Ancient Egypt, Stefano Pilati created a spring collection featuring hieroglyphic sheer knits, kilted skirts and reed-like swathes of fabric
Santoni: Metallic flashes of ruby red highlighted the pivotal line between strength, sensuality, craftsmanship and modern design at Santoni
Krizia: One of the best presentations during Milan Fashion Week was Krizia's formal relaunch under Chinese creative director Zhu Chongyun at the richly frescoed and gilded 17th century Palazzo Litta. Architect Vincenzo de Cotiis served as the informal curator of the project that brought five Italian magazines together with five international artists or designers to celebrate the historic Milanese fashion label. Here is de Cotiis' dramatic metal sculpture - a homage to Krizia's famous pleats
Krizia: Furniture designer Faye Toogood's spectacular 'Phoenix' nest made of reclaimed wood
Krizia: An eyeball installation by Malaysian born, Milan-based art director Joanne Tan
Weargrace: American born, Milan-based designer Karen Joyce presented her nascent yoga line in the Alberto Levi carpet gallery. The line featured unusual silhouettes and buttery soft cottons such as this wrap-front short and reversible printed top that can be worn front or back
Piquadro: A lesson in packing from the experts
Ca&Lou: The jewellery brand launched adorned, printed handbags for spring
Gianvito Rossi: The Italian shoe designer goes low and plaited for S/S 2015 with this flat woven suede sandal
Prada: Purple lumps set the surreal, sand hill scene at Prada
Álvaro: Álvaro González, Valentino's former accessories designer, refines the perfect metallic sandal for spring
Kiton: The brand relaunched its womenswear label with a sit down lunch in its Via Pontaccio headquarters, complete with tomatoes and mozzarella flown in from Naples
Moschino: We've gone from McDonald's to Barbie as Jeremy Scott continues his riff on American consumer culture. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Bally: Pablo Coppola's spring collection featured feminine leather skirts and flat loafers
Woolrich: The house collaborated with Dutch fabric mill Vlisco (founded in 1846) for its latest African-inspired line. The cloth mill specialises in textile designs from the region as a hangover from Dutch colonial times
Fratelli Rossetti: It's not surprising that Fratelli Rossetti's new hand-stained calfskin lace-ups are called 'Candies'
Fausto Puglisi: The Italian designer backstage was surrounded by models sporting his Op art-inspired spring offering. Photography: Jason Lloyd-Evans
Gentucca Bini: One of our favourite presentations in Milan occurred not in a fancy palazzo, but in a hardware store. Designer Gentucca Bini used the store to launch a series of workwear jumpsuits, seven styles in all, which were worn by local friends who represented various creative industries
Bertoni: Milan's leather goods presentations begin with the family owned, former trunk-making brand Bertoni
Loewe: The Spanish house opened its first European Casa Loewe store in Milan, dotted with the works of local Milanese artist Ugo La Pietra, showcased here under a similarly spectacular Malachite ceiling
Sara Battaglia: The designer's spring handbag installation was inspired by 1940s beach huts from Italy's Forte dei Marmi resorts
Brunello Cucinelli: Dusty, pastel hues and exotic skins dominated Brunello Cucinelli's spring preview
Marcelo Burlon: This tiny t-shirt label has mushroomed into a full service fashion brand
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Jack Moss is the Fashion & Beauty Features Director at Wallpaper*, having joined the team in 2022 as Fashion Features Editor. Previously the digital features editor at AnOther and digital editor at 10 Magazine, he has also contributed to numerous international publications and featured in ‘Dazed: 32 Years Confused: The Covers’, published by Rizzoli. He is particularly interested in the moments when fashion intersects with other creative disciplines – notably art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and reporting from international fashion weeks. Across his career, he has interviewed the fashion industry’s leading figures, including Rick Owens, Pieter Mulier, Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, Christian Lacroix, Kate Moss and Manolo Blahnik.
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