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Catwalk tour: the top Men's fashion week venues of A/W 2013
Catwalk tour: the top Men's fashion week venues of A/W 2013
Lanvin: The magnificent details of the main hall at Ecole Superieure des Beaux Arts were left exposed for Lanvin, while the floor's multicoloured tiles became a catwalk. Meanwhile, Etienne Russo's Villa Eugenie team created an intricate lighting system to flood the catwalk with mysteriously dusty light
Words: Rosa Bertoli
Louis Vuitton: Louis Vuitton's Kim Jones referenced the Bhutanese mountains in his collection and used a dramatic black and white image of the Himalaya as a backdrop, which reflected onto the black lacquered catwalk. La Mode en Images handled the production
Ami: For his A/W 2013 collection, Ami founder Alexandre Mattiussi drew inspiration from the people he sees around the Châtelet metro. The contrast between these characters was his starting point for a collection that mixed casual ingredients with sartorial touches. To provide a suitable backdrop, Mattiussi commissioned Obo Design to reproduce a subway car in sleek wood veneer, with neon tubes lighting up intermittently to emulate a moving train
Set-up pictures: Mathias Casado Castro for AMI
Berluti: For Alessandro Sartori's latest Berluti collection, producers Bureau Betak explored the brand's heritage and its relevance to the future of the label. Set in the Galerie de L'Evolution at Paris' Muséum National d'Histoire Naturelle, the show saw animal-head mannequins accessorised inside glass vitrines interspersed with the majestic taxidermied animals in the museum's halls
Berluti: For Alessandro Sartori's latest Berluti collection, producers Bureau Betak explored the brand's heritage and its relevance to the future of the label. Set in the Galerie de L'Evolution at Paris' Muséum National d'Histoire Naturelle, the show saw animal-head mannequins accessorised inside glass vitrines interspersed with the majestic taxidermied animals in the museum's halls
Saint Laurent: In keeping with his radical redesign of the French maison, Hedi Slimane took over the Grand Palais with his concept of a spinning carousel. The gigantic structure, composed of speakers and neon lights, had a life of its own, providing the lighting and soundtrack for the Saint Laurent show
Saint Laurent: In keeping with his radical redesign of the French maison, Hedi Slimane took over the Grand Palais with his concept of a spinning carousel. The gigantic structure, composed of speakers and neon lights, had a life of its own, providing the lighting and soundtrack for the Saint Laurent show
Damir Doma: French design studio Diplomates created another subtle backdrop for Damir Doma, this one for his A/W 2013 collection. They built a giant white structure within the Salle Melpomene at the Galerie d'Exposition des Beaux-Arts', then defined a 'catwalk' with a strip of heather-grey board that ran down the middle of the space and up the back wall
Dior Homme: At the Garde Republicaine, Bureau Betak set up a blinding white structure for Dior Homme, with models descending from a stark white staircase onto a shiny catwalk
Photography: Gaetan Bernard
Brioni: The stunning backdrop for Brioni's presentation was Milan's Palazzo Serbelloni, a neoclassical palace that briefly served as a residence for Napoleon. The spectacle was spread across several halls. Upon entering, guests gathered in a small curtained room, where a film directed by American artist Collier Schorr was projected on the wall. They proceeded to the larger halls, where huge prints of the artist's photographs were mounted alongside her geometric installation art. The highlight came in the salon, where models stood motionless like museum pieces behind glass
Brioni: The stunning backdrop for Brioni's presentation was Milan's Palazzo Serbelloni, a neoclassical palace that briefly served as a residence for Napoleon. The spectacle was spread across several halls. Upon entering, guests gathered in a small curtained room, where a film directed by American artist Collier Schorr was projected on the wall. They proceeded to the larger halls, where huge prints of the artist's photographs were mounted alongside her geometric installation art. The highlight came in the salon, where models stood motionless like museum pieces behind glass
Burberry Prorsum: Burberry's long-running celebration of all things British took a new turn at the menswear show, where a silhouette of the London skyline merged beautifully with images of Milan's Duomo. Various landmarks were juxtaposed with faint projections onto the catwalk's back wall, which was paneled in the label's signature check
Etro: Milan's splendid Palazzo del Ghiaccio may be a former ice rink, but there was nothing cold about Etro's backdrop for its A/W 2013 presentation, which featured a selection of calming scenes from nature
Etro: Milan's splendid Palazzo del Ghiaccio may be a former ice rink, but there was nothing cold about Etro's backdrop for its A/W 2013 presentation, which featured a selection of calming scenes from nature
Fendi: Fendi's steely collection matched the look of the set. An angular labyrinth of a catwalk was built into Milan's Fondazione Arnaldo Pomodoro. The multi-level catwalk route played with the space's existing steel elements, while simultaneously a zoomed-in video of the show was projected on the walls
Salvatore Ferragamo: The dark mood at Salvatore Ferragamo's show was reflected in the dimly lit space, where walls projected abstract scenes of New York at night. Meanwhile the wet catwalk resembled dark asphalt after the rain
Givenchy: Last season music blared from an oversized organ and this year Riccardo Tisci shows no signs of abandoning the spiritual tones that have influenced his Givenchy sets. For A/W 2013 he built a circular catwalk in Paris's grand Halle Freyssinet, encircled by hundreds of candles, giving the space a solemn feel
Givenchy: Last season music blared from an oversized organ and this year Riccardo Tisci shows no signs of abandoning the spiritual tones that have influenced his Givenchy sets. For A/W 2013 he built a circular catwalk in Paris's grand Halle Freyssinet, encircled by hundreds of candles, giving the space a solemn feel
Hermès: Another raw corner of the Palais de Tokyo formed the backdrop of the Hermès collection. The bare space, under vaulted ceilings and concrete pillars, seemed to disappear when Véronique Nichanian's carefully curated shapes came to life
Photography: Vincent Lapartient
Z Zegna: Paul Surridge's Z Zegna show took place in the Museo della Permanente, furnished with a bark-covered catwalk. The team at Urban Production placed it in stark contrast with the space's moody ambiance, using dark brown velvet on the outer curtains and seats
Jil Sander: Thierry Dreyfus once again worked his minimalist magic at Jil Sander's via Beltrami space. He kept the concave ceiling design from the previous show, then lowered the catwalk, flanking it with black seating blocks
Moncler Gamme Bleu: Heritage Scottish details in Moncler's collection came down a snow-covered catwalk interrupted by small clusters of conifers. Visible through the fog, which permeated the set, were dead soldiers in medieval armor - certainly killed by the models carrying Moncler-branded white swords
Moncler Gamme Bleu: Heritage Scottish details in Moncler's collection came down a snow-covered catwalk interrupted by small clusters of conifers. Visible through the fog, which permeated the set, were dead soldiers in medieval armor - certainly killed by the models carrying Moncler-branded white swords
Maison Martin Margiela: The Garage Turennes got the Maison Martin Margiela treatment, with signature white floors, ceiling and walls. The space was filled with stark white benches arranged asymmetrically
Comme des Garçons: The set at Paris' Abel14 studio space reflected the whimsical nature of Rei Kawakubo's latest Comme des Garçons collection. Kawakubo left the catwalk raw and unadorned, yet introduced fields of bright green to the floor and ceiling. The accent colour reflected details in the garments
Neil Barrett: Neil Barrett chose the courtyard at Milan's state archives for his latest menswear effort. Using the porch as a makeshift catwalk, the designer accessorised with strong, strategic lighting
Neil Barrett: Neil Barrett chose the courtyard at Milan's state archives for his latest menswear effort. Using the porch as a makeshift catwalk, the designer accessorised with strong, strategic lighting
Rake: Tailoring house Rake set its presentation in London's private member's club Tramp. The wood-panelled interiors, blue velvet seats and chandeliers made the perfect backdrop for the brand's eclectic tailoring
Ports 1961: The Milan presentation of Ports 1961 was a darkened affair with models walking alongside photo vignettes depicting designer Ian Hylton's inspirations for the collection
Photography: BillyNava.com
Prada: The set at the brand's via Fogazzaro headquarters was transformed into a glamorous Milanese apartment to provide a sneak peek at the forthcoming furniture collaboration of OMA and Knoll
Prada: The set at the brand's via Fogazzaro headquarters was transformed into a glamorous Milanese apartment to provide a sneak peek at the forthcoming furniture collaboration of OMA and Knoll
Dries Van Noten: In keeping with the grunge atmosphere at Dries Van Noten, the designer left the interior of the Palais de Tokyo crude and un-designed, which corresponded with the collection's raw detailing
Savile Row: At the splendidly renovated neoclassical Spencer House in London, Savile Row designers collaborated with Woolmark to showcase their best offerings, largely bespoke. The looks were grouped in themes – hunting, lounging, formal dining, uniform – and installed in various room throughout the house as live installations, on real models
Savile Row: At the splendidly renovated neoclassical Spencer House in London, Savile Row designers collaborated with Woolmark to showcase their best offerings, largely bespoke. The looks were grouped in themes – hunting, lounging, formal dining, uniform – and installed in various room throughout the house as live installations, on real models
Rick Owens: An oversized, elongated digital screen doubled up as both lighting fixture and catwalk backdrop for Rick Owens, pictured here taking his post-show bow. Photography: Valerio Mezzanotti
Trussardi: There was an ever-so-subtle recreation of an autumnal birch forest at Trussardi. Images of a misty underbrush on the walls and pillars of Milan's Salone dei Tessuti created an eerie environment, enhanced by dead leaves on the wood parquet by the models' entrance
Trussardi: There was an ever-so-subtle recreation of an autumnal birch forest at Trussardi. Images of a misty underbrush on the walls and pillars of Milan's Salone dei Tessuti created an eerie environment, enhanced by dead leaves on the wood parquet by the models' entrance
Ermenegildo Zegna: A curved catwalk centred the mimimalist catwalk at Ermenegildo Zegna's Milanese HQ
Valentino: Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli held their latest menswear show in the intimate setting of Paris' Hôtel Salomon De Rothschild. The stunning 19th century salons were lined with rows of chairs featuring blue velvet seats, which matching the carpeted floors, with a slim catwalk of interlocking parquet running through the rooms
Valentino: Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli held their latest menswear show in the intimate setting of Paris' Hôtel Salomon De Rothschild. The stunning 19th century salons were lined with rows of chairs featuring blue velvet seats, which matching the carpeted floors, with a slim catwalk of interlocking parquet running through the rooms
Dsquared²: Ever fond of a theatrical set, the Caten twins conjured up a smoky jazz club for their Fall show. Hanging chandeliers and jazz-age portraits adorned the theatre-like space, with live music played from a grand piano and trumpets in the background to set the scene
Dsquared²: Ever fond of a theatrical set, the Caten twins conjured up a smoky jazz club for their Fall show. Hanging chandeliers and jazz-age portraits adorned the theatre-like space, with live music played from a grand piano and trumpets in the background to set the scene
