And so it begins: with runway shows from Ralph Lauren and Coach, today marks the opening day of New York Fashion Week (albeit unofficially, with the two American powerhouses choosing to show off-schedule), and with it, the start of fashion month. With further stops taking place in London, Milan and Paris, the industry is preparing for four weeks of runway shows, presentations and happenings, as designers set forth their vision for the S/S 2027 season ahead.
There is a buoyant mood to New York this season, which against the odds is enjoying a luxury retail renaissance (read more below) and has a solid fashion-week schedule to match. This is bolstered by the presence of its big-name designers, which are largely in the midst of a renaissance of their own: among them Ralph Lauren, Coach and Tory Burch, which have each enjoyed social-media virality in recent seasons, particularly among younger consumers, as well as Calvin Klein Collection, Michael Kors, Thom Browne and Proenza Schouler. Each will show across the week.
Elsewhere, injections of newness come via Henry Zankov’s debut at Diane von Furstenberg (the New York-based designer has garnered an enormous amount of goodwill through his award-winning eponymous label Zankov, which will continue to show alongside), as well as the young labels Diotima, Ashlyn and LII, the latter of which saw designer Zane Li pick up the Karl Lagerfeld Award at the LVMH Prize 2026 earlier this month.
Here, Wallpaper* breaks down all the moments to look out for at New York Fashion Week S/S 2027 (9–15 September 2026).
Ralph Lauren and Coach will open the week – off-schedule
A look from Coach’s A/W 2026 runway show. This season, creative director Stuart Vevers has chosen to show off-schedule on Wednesday evening
The week will begin with two American mega-brands – both currently in the midst of a renaissance – showing off-schedule on Wednesday. Up first, Ralph Lauren, whose signature preppy aesthetic, particularly the colourful Polo Ralph Lauren offshoot, is currently in the midst of a revival (collections from Celine, Dior and Miu Miu have all riffed on similar collegiate and varsity styles). The designer, who turns 87 next month, will host the show in a venue in New York’s Tribeca neighbourhood – expect famous faces on the front row and a coterie of major models on the runway, as well as a collection which riffs on the tenets of American style.
Later that evening, at an as-yet-undisclosed location, Stuart Vevers will show his latest collection for Coach (an afterparty will immediately follow). Vevers has hit his stride in recent seasons, combining his eye for accessories (styles like the Brooklyn or Tabby have gone viral) with collections which capture a New York insouciance increasingly geared for young consumers. ‘We embrace the continuous reinvention of what it means to be young and forward-looking, resourceful and creative,’ he told Wallpaper* last season.
Henry Zankov will make his Diane von Furstenberg debut
New York-based designer Henry Zankov, who will hold his first show as creative director of Diane von Furstenberg
New York-based designer Henry Zankov has steadily built a reputation as one of the city’s most intriguing talents; his colourful, inventive knitwear under his eponymous label Zankov cleverly toes the line between the grown-up and the playful. After being initially embraced by fashion insiders (we called him the designer ‘making fashion’s favourite sweaters’ in 2024), he has gone on to find international stockists and won a CFDA Award for American Emerging Designer of the Year. ‘It’s just about letting the audience take it however they want to take it,’ he told Wallpaper* of his eclectic aesthetic. ‘There's a playful aspect to [my work], but it never feels matchy.’
This season, alongside the latest show for his eponymous label on Monday 14 September, he will show his debut collection for Diane von Furstenberg on the morning of Thursday 10 September. Taking over all creative for the brand, which was founded by its namesake in 1972, Zankov said he hopes to continue Von Furstenberg’s liberated approach to fashion (she is known for the advent of the jersey wrap dress, and always put women at the centre of her designs). ‘I have always been surrounded and inspired by strong women, and Diane is the ultimate embodiment of that,’ he recently said. ‘The DVF woman is a rebel – confident, curious and independent. It is an honour and privilege for me to build on Diane’s legacy and to carry the brand into the future.’ The woman herself added: ‘I am excited to watch Henry’s designs, sense of colour, and effortless sensibility seduce a new generation.’
New York’s blockbuster brands aren’t going anywhere
Tory Burch’s A/W 2026 show, one of a number of New York stalwart brands showing this season
Joining Ralph Lauren, Coach and Diane Von Furstenberg will be a number of other names that have long been synonymous with the city. Proenza Schouler, now under the creative leadership of Diotima’s Rachel Scott, will show on Thursday 10 September, followed later that evening by Tory Burch, who will present her latest collection at the Isamu Noguchi Sunken Garden on New York’s Pine Street. Michael Kors and Calvin Klein Collection will both show the following day on Friday 11 September, while Khaite – one of New York’s more successful exports of recent years – will host its latest show at the Brooklyn Storehouse on Saturday 12 September. The vast warehouse space will no doubt be occupied by a typically cinematic show set by designer Catherine Holstein’s husband Griffin Frazen, an architectural designer who helped conceive the sets for The Brutalist.
There will be a New York retail renaissance
Victoria Beckham’s first New York store, which opens this September, alongside numerous other retail openings in the city
In April, property company Savills placed New York as the top city for luxury retail openings for the first time since 2019, cementing the renaissance of bricks-and-mortar retail happening across the city (notably, on Fifth and Madison Avenues, though there has also been luxury retail growth Downtown). Joining a slew of new Uptown mega-flagships – including the four-floor Peter Marino-designed House of Dior New York on Madison Avenue – will be a vast new Moncler store, Moncler Fifth Avenue, marking the largest-ever global flagship for the Italian outerwear brand. It will celebrate the opening with an event on Thursday 10 September.
Elsewhere, Acne Studios will open a new store in New York’s West Village on Greene Street with a party later that evening, while a new Victoria Beckham store created by the British designer alongside artist Alexander May and designer Ole Lund of LNP in SoHo will no doubt attract those visiting the city. Speaking to Wallpaper*, she called it her ‘home away from home’.
Zane Li headlines the rising design stars to watch
The LVMH Prize 2026 Karl Lagerfeld winner Zane Li photographed for the January issue of Wallpaper*. He will host his latest runway show as part of New York Fashion Week
LII, the eponymous label of Zane Li, has been a Wallpaper* favourite for some time: in our January issue, we rated him as one of our names to watch in 2026. ‘Zane Li’s clothes are endlessly intriguing,’ wrote Orla Brennan at the time of the young Parsons School of Design graduate. ‘Starting from a flat shape, the Chongqing-born FIT graduate constructs garments the way an architect might a blueprint, leading to silhouettes that sit on the body in curiously sculptural ways.’
These intriguing silhouettes and a bold use of colour won Li The Karl Lagerfeld Prize at the LVMH Prize 2026 earlier this month, with chairman and chief executive officer of Christian Dior Couture Delphine Arnault praising him for designs that ‘seamlessly blend sportswear with couture influences’. Buoyant on this success, he will show his third runway show this season on Monday 14 September. Elsewhere, there are several other brilliant young labels in New York: Rachel Scott’s Diotima will host its third runway show on Monday 14 September; Henry Zankov will hold his latest Zankov show, also on Monday 14, and Ashlyn Park’s Ashlyn will show at the Cristina Grajales Gallery on Saturday 12 September.
Conner Ives will head stateside for a homecoming show
Conner Ives S/S 2026 show in London. He will hold his latest show as part of New York Fashion Week, which marks something of a homecoming for the American designer
In something of a homecoming, Conner Ives will bring his irreverent London-based label back to the United States, where he was born and grew up. Previously showing at London Fashion Week, the buzzy label – which gained international prominence with his ‘Protect the Dolls’ T-shirts, which advocated for Trans rights and were worn by numerous high-profile figures – will hold its first New York show on Saturday 12 September. Expect the usual liberated blend of pop cultural references, insouciant glamour and upcycled garments, and a no-doubt memorable cast (his previous shows have drawn from London’s queer and creative communities, as opposed to typical runway models). Titled ‘Across the Pond’, the show will take place at The Grill, a chophouse located in the former Grill Room of the Four Seasons restaurant in New York’s Seagram Building.
Thom Browne will return to New York for the week’s finale
Thom Browne, who will close this year’s edition of New York Fashion Week, photographed in the August Creative America issue of Wallpaper*
The closing act of New York Fashion Week belongs to Thom Browne, who, after runway shows in New York and San Francisco, returns to his home city (as chairman of the CFDA, the organisers of New York Fashion Week, it is also a show of support for the event). Details for the show, which will take place at 5pm on Tuesday 15 September, are so far under wraps, though expect theatrical spectacle and plays on his signature garment, the grey suit. ‘Sometimes we don't realise how transformative the suit is until the person is wearing it,’ Browne told us in the August Creative American issue of Wallpaper*. ‘You do feel the shift when you put it on. It’s powerful’