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If ever there was a time to hone your working uniform it is the autumn, a season which, after the hot and heady rush of summer, marks the moment to pack up your holiday wardrobe and embrace the strangely seductive pull of officewear – a mood of grown-up polish that draws you back to your desk and the routine of the nine-to-five.
This needn’t suggest tedium: the A/W 2024 collections offer an altogether twisted view of city dressing, seeing futuristic and sculptural silhouettes meet unexpected flourishes of texture in a corporate palette of navy, grey and black. Alongside, riffs on the classic overcoat: like Acne Studios’ version in moulded leather, which creative director Jonny Johansson likened to Estonian artist Villu Jaanisoo’s enormous rubber armchairs that were dotted around the runway when the collection was revealed in Paris earlier this year. ‘[It’s] rooted in toughness and human form, leather and denim,’ Johansson says of the full-throttle collection.
A/W 2024’s twisted officewear
Jacket, €9,500, by Marni (enquire at marni.com). Boots, price on request, by Stella McCartney (enquire at stellamccartney.com)
Victoria Beckham describes her A/W 2024 collection as taking the silhouettes at the core of her brand and ‘abstracting’ them, often deconstructing them to their essence and rebuilding them into new propositions. This includes office-style tailoring, whereby blazers are redesigned to hang on the front of the body, leaving the back exposed, as one might hold a garment to the body before trying on an outfit. At Sportmax, the wide, notched lapels of a tuxedo are combined with a classic elongated grey coat for statement-making outerwear that need not be removed when you step inside the office.
Meanwhile at JW Anderson and Louis Vuitton, the idea of a sculpted waist is explored in different ways by Jonathan Anderson and Nicolas Ghesquière, two designers who defined the A/W 2024 season with imaginative and intriguing collections. At JW Anderson, a grey sweater has a darted waist for a pinched silhouette recalling tailoring or dressmaking, while at Louis Vuitton, a sculptural jacket comes with the kind of sharp, futuristic line which has defined Ghesquière’s postmodern approach during his ten-year tenure at the house (the A/W 2024 collection was a celebration of the past decade, seeing the French designer revive his archive anew).
In the heart of London’s Square Mile – the financial epicentre of the city – photographer Sasha Marro and Wallpaper* fashion and creative director Jason Hughes capture A/W 2024’s new working uniform as part of the October 2024 Guest Editors’ issue of Wallpaper*, which is on international newsstands now.
Coat, price on request; belt, £1,630, both by Chanel (enquire at chanel.com)
Jacket, £990; skirt, £1,690, both by Victoria Beckham (enquire at victoriabeckham.com). Bodysuit, £195, by Wolford (enquire at wolford.com). Boots, €2,300, by Balenciaga (available balenciaga.com)
Coat, £3,500, by Stella McCartney (enquire at stellamccartney.com)
Opposite, jacket, £5,960 (available maison-alaia.com); bodysuit, £910 (available maison-alaia.com); skirt, £3,480 (available maison-alaia.com); gloves, £880 (enquire at maison-alaia.com), all by Alaïa
Coat, £7,250, by Proenza Schouler (available proenzaschouler.com). Gloves, £316, by Paula Rowan (enquire at paularowan.com)
Dress, £650, by JW Anderson (available jwanderson.com). Dress (underneath), £560, by MM6 (enquire at maisonmargiela.com). Boots, price on request, by Stella McCartney. Gloves, £316, by Paula Rowan (enquire at paularowan.com)
Jacket, £1,365 (available sportmax.com); roll-neck, £345 (available sportmax.com), both by Sportmax. Boots, €2,300, by Balenciaga (available balenciaga.com). Gloves, £316, by Paula Rowan (enquire at paularowan.com)
Jacket, £3,750; top, £2,230, both by Louis Vuitton (enquire at louisvuitton.com)
Jacket, £8,800; tights, £645, both by Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello (enquire at ysl.com)
Model: Julia Rambukkana at The Milk Collective. Casting: Ikki Casting at WSM. Hair: Chloe Frieda using Authentic Beauty Concept. Make-up: Sunao Takahashi at St Luke using Dior Forever Foundation and Capture Totale Le Sérum. Photography assistants: Fred Barlet, Pablo Gallegos. Fashion assistants: Lucy Proctor, Nathan Fox. Production assistants: Minna Vauhkonen, Ady Huq, Archie Thomson. Retouching: IPP Studio.
This article appears in the October 2024 Guest Editors’ Issue of Wallpaper* available in print on newsstands, on the Wallpaper* app on Apple iOS, and to subscribers of Apple News +. Subscribe to Wallpaper* today.