For S/S 2025, nothing is quite what it seems with these twisted wardrobe staples
Trompe l’oeil, twisted silhouettes, unexpected fabrications: S/S 2025 sees designers play on wardrobe staples in increasingly surreal ways
Nicole Maria Winkler - Photography
Nothing is quite what it seems with the S/S 2025 collections, seeing designers riff on wardrobe staples with illusory tricks – from trompe l’œil to twisted silhouettes and unexpected fabrications. Whether the turned-up hemline of a leather Loewe overcoat – as though perpetually caught in a gust of wind – or a surreal Hodakova shoe, which squashes together a beach flip-flop and high-heeled pump, these are pieces that appear as one thing, but are actually another (a response, no doubt, to our increasingly disorientating digital age). The effect is something like a surreal collage; garments that implore a second look.
S/S 2025’s twisted wardrobe staples
Jacket, price on request, by Loewe (enquire at loewe.com)
As such, in the March 2025 Style Issue of Wallpaper* (on international newsstands now), photographer Nicole Maria Winkler and Wallpaper* fashion and creative director Jason Hughes capture these looks in a surreal interior of their own: a liminal apartment whereby Winkler’s archival photographs become trompe l’oeil wall coverings, or adorn folding screens and chests of drawers. Inhabited by Swiss artist and model Veronika Kunz, the space – which was imagined by set designer Kim Harding – is completed with modernist furnishings, from a Ron Arad bed to an Afra and Tobia Scarpa Cassina sofa.
‘Nicole and I have been friends for many years and have played with trompe-l’œil before, and this story was a further exploration of that theme,’ Harding told Wallpaper*. ‘Delving into Nicole’s archive of still lifes, we created some interesting stand-alone pieces to sit among the set itself.’
Top, £160 (available from fredperry.com); belt, price on request (enquire at craig-green.com), both by Craig Green. Pants, price on request, by Loewe (enquire at loewe.com)
Top, £2,270; skirt, £3,570, both by Gucci (enquire at gucci.com). Shoes, price on request, by Hodakova (enquire at hodakova.com)
Top, £2,270; skirt, £3,570, both by Gucci (enquire at gucci.com). Shoes, price on request, by Hodakova (enquire at hodakova.com). Kashgai kilim, £1,050, by The Rug Company (available therugcompany.com). ‘Random 3C’ bookcase, £2,945, by Neuland Industriedesign, for MDF Italia, from Aram (available aram.co.uk)
Dress, £2,250, by Fendi (enquire at fendi.com). Shoes, price on request, by Hodakova (enquire at hodakova.com). ‘Soriana’ sofa, price on request, by Afra and Tobia Scarpa, for Cassina (available cassina.com)
Dress, £3,095, by Tod’s (enquire at tods.com). Shoes, price on request, by Hodakova (enquire at hodakova.com). ‘Gea’ side table, £1,500 for pair, by Kazuhide Takahama, for Gavina, from Monument (available monumentstore.co.uk). Kashgai kilim, £1,050, by The Rug Company (available therugcompany.com). ‘Random 3C’ bookcase, £2,945, by Neuland Industriedesign, for MDF Italia, from Aram (available aram.co.uk)
Top, £360, by JW Anderson (available from jwanderson.com). Skirt, £13,435; shoes, price on request, both by Hodakova (enquire at hodakova.com). ‘Gea’ side table, £1,500 for pair, by Kazuhide Takahama, for Gavina, from Monument (available monumentstore.co.uk). Kashgai kilim, £1,050, by The Rug Company (available therugcompany.com). ‘Random 3C’ bookcase, £2,945, by Neuland Industriedesign, for MDF Italia, from Aram (available aram.co.uk)
Dress, price on request, by Junya Watanabe (enquire at shop.doverstreetmarket.com). Shoes, price on request, by Hodakova (enquire at hodakova.com)
Dress, £545, by Sportmax (available from sportmax.com in longer length)
Dress, price on request, by Acne Studios (enquire at acnestudios.com). Shoes, price on request, by Hodakova (enquire at hodakova.com). ‘Quaderna’ coffee table, £2,972, by Superstudio, for Zanotta, from Aram (available aram.co.uk). Kashgai kilim, £1,050, by The Rug Company (available therugcompany.com)
Clockwise from top, £1,175, by Stella McCartney (available from net-a-porter.com); £2400, by Hodakova (available from hodakova.com); £3,250, by Prada (available from prada.com); £2,550, by Fendi (available from fendi.com); price on request, by Bottega Veneta (enquire at bottegaveneta.com); £4,215, by Ferragamo (enquire at ferragamo.com)
Model: Veronika Kunz at Kunz Management. Casting: Ikki Casting at WSM. Set design: Kim Harding Studio. Hair: Sophie Jane Anderson. Make-up: Faye Bluff at Of Substance Agency using Makeup by Mario. Manicure: Sasha Goddard at Saint Luke using Dior. Digi tech: Anna-Sophia John. Photography assistant: Tom Porter. Set design assistants: Matilda Greenwood, Heather Allen. Fashion assistants: Nathan Fox, Rebecca Evans-White. Production assistant: Archie Thomson.
A version of this article appears in the March 2025 issue of Wallpaper*, available in print on international newsstands, on the Wallpaper* app on Apple iOS, and to subscribers of Apple News +. Subscribe to Wallpaper* today.
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Jack Moss is the Fashion & Beauty Features Director at Wallpaper*, having joined the team in 2022 as Fashion Features Editor. Previously the digital features editor at AnOther and digital editor at 10 Magazine, he has also contributed to numerous international publications and featured in ‘Dazed: 32 Years Confused: The Covers’, published by Rizzoli. He is particularly interested in the moments when fashion intersects with other creative disciplines – notably art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and reporting from international fashion weeks. Across his career, he has interviewed the fashion industry’s leading figures, including Rick Owens, Pieter Mulier, Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, Christian Lacroix, Kate Moss and Manolo Blahnik.
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