For S/S 2025, nothing is quite what it seems with these twisted wardrobe staples
Trompe l’oeil, twisted silhouettes, unexpected fabrications: S/S 2025 sees designers play on wardrobe staples in increasingly surreal ways
Nicole Maria Winkler - Photography
Nothing is quite what it seems with the S/S 2025 collections, seeing designers riff on wardrobe staples with illusory tricks – from trompe l’œil to twisted silhouettes and unexpected fabrications. Whether the turned-up hemline of a leather Loewe overcoat – as though perpetually caught in a gust of wind – or a surreal Hodakova shoe, which squashes together a beach flip-flop and high-heeled pump, these are pieces that appear as one thing, but are actually another (a response, no doubt, to our increasingly disorientating digital age). The effect is something like a surreal collage; garments that implore a second look.
S/S 2025’s twisted wardrobe staples
Jacket, price on request, by Loewe (enquire at loewe.com)
As such, in the March 2025 Style Issue of Wallpaper* (on international newsstands now), photographer Nicole Maria Winkler and Wallpaper* fashion and creative director Jason Hughes capture these looks in a surreal interior of their own: a liminal apartment whereby Winkler’s archival photographs become trompe l’oeil wall coverings, or adorn folding screens and chests of drawers. Inhabited by Swiss artist and model Veronika Kunz, the space – which was imagined by set designer Kim Harding – is completed with modernist furnishings, from a Ron Arad bed to an Afra and Tobia Scarpa Cassina sofa.
‘Nicole and I have been friends for many years and have played with trompe-l’œil before, and this story was a further exploration of that theme,’ Harding told Wallpaper*. ‘Delving into Nicole’s archive of still lifes, we created some interesting stand-alone pieces to sit among the set itself.’
Top, £160 (available from fredperry.com); belt, price on request (enquire at craig-green.com), both by Craig Green. Pants, price on request, by Loewe (enquire at loewe.com)
Top, £2,270; skirt, £3,570, both by Gucci (enquire at gucci.com). Shoes, price on request, by Hodakova (enquire at hodakova.com)
Top, £2,270; skirt, £3,570, both by Gucci (enquire at gucci.com). Shoes, price on request, by Hodakova (enquire at hodakova.com). Kashgai kilim, £1,050, by The Rug Company (available therugcompany.com). ‘Random 3C’ bookcase, £2,945, by Neuland Industriedesign, for MDF Italia, from Aram (available aram.co.uk)
Dress, £2,250, by Fendi (enquire at fendi.com). Shoes, price on request, by Hodakova (enquire at hodakova.com). ‘Soriana’ sofa, price on request, by Afra and Tobia Scarpa, for Cassina (available cassina.com)
Dress, £3,095, by Tod’s (enquire at tods.com). Shoes, price on request, by Hodakova (enquire at hodakova.com). ‘Gea’ side table, £1,500 for pair, by Kazuhide Takahama, for Gavina, from Monument (available monumentstore.co.uk). Kashgai kilim, £1,050, by The Rug Company (available therugcompany.com). ‘Random 3C’ bookcase, £2,945, by Neuland Industriedesign, for MDF Italia, from Aram (available aram.co.uk)
Top, £360, by JW Anderson (available from jwanderson.com). Skirt, £13,435; shoes, price on request, both by Hodakova (enquire at hodakova.com). ‘Gea’ side table, £1,500 for pair, by Kazuhide Takahama, for Gavina, from Monument (available monumentstore.co.uk). Kashgai kilim, £1,050, by The Rug Company (available therugcompany.com). ‘Random 3C’ bookcase, £2,945, by Neuland Industriedesign, for MDF Italia, from Aram (available aram.co.uk)
Dress, price on request, by Junya Watanabe (enquire at shop.doverstreetmarket.com). Shoes, price on request, by Hodakova (enquire at hodakova.com)
Dress, £545, by Sportmax (available from sportmax.com in longer length)
Dress, price on request, by Acne Studios (enquire at acnestudios.com). Shoes, price on request, by Hodakova (enquire at hodakova.com). ‘Quaderna’ coffee table, £2,972, by Superstudio, for Zanotta, from Aram (available aram.co.uk). Kashgai kilim, £1,050, by The Rug Company (available therugcompany.com)
Clockwise from top, £1,175, by Stella McCartney (available from net-a-porter.com); £2400, by Hodakova (available from hodakova.com); £3,250, by Prada (available from prada.com); £2,550, by Fendi (available from fendi.com); price on request, by Bottega Veneta (enquire at bottegaveneta.com); £4,215, by Ferragamo (enquire at ferragamo.com)
Model: Veronika Kunz at Kunz Management. Casting: Ikki Casting at WSM. Set design: Kim Harding Studio. Hair: Sophie Jane Anderson. Make-up: Faye Bluff at Of Substance Agency using Makeup by Mario. Manicure: Sasha Goddard at Saint Luke using Dior. Digi tech: Anna-Sophia John. Photography assistant: Tom Porter. Set design assistants: Matilda Greenwood, Heather Allen. Fashion assistants: Nathan Fox, Rebecca Evans-White. Production assistant: Archie Thomson.
A version of this article appears in the March 2025 issue of Wallpaper*, available in print on international newsstands, on the Wallpaper* app on Apple iOS, and to subscribers of Apple News +. Subscribe to Wallpaper* today.
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
Jack Moss is the Fashion & Beauty Features Director at Wallpaper*, having joined the team in 2022 as Fashion Features Editor. Previously the digital features editor at AnOther and digital editor at 10 Magazine, he has also contributed to numerous international publications and featured in ‘Dazed: 32 Years Confused: The Covers’, published by Rizzoli. He is particularly interested in the moments when fashion intersects with other creative disciplines – notably art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and reporting from international fashion weeks. Across his career, he has interviewed the fashion industry’s leading figures, including Rick Owens, Pieter Mulier, Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, Christian Lacroix, Kate Moss and Manolo Blahnik.
-
Curvilinear futurism meets subtropical beaches at Not A Hotel’s ZHA-designed Okinawa retreatZaha Hadid Architects has revealed the design for the first property in Not A Hotel’s futuristic new Vertex collection, coming soon to southern Japan
-
Gorden Wagener leaves the helm of Mercedes-Benz design after 28 years with the companyThe German designer is stepping down from the role of chief design officer at Mercedes-Benz. We look back at his influence and impact on the world of automotive and luxury design
-
These Christmas cards sent by 20th-century architects tell their own storiesHandcrafted holiday greetings reveal the personal side of architecture and design legends such as Charles and Ray Eames, Frank Lloyd Wright and Ludwig Mies van der Rohe
-
Ferragamo gifts come imbued with glamour and nostalgia this seasonIn a series of short films and images, the Italian fashion house celebrates gift-giving and offers an array of wishlist-worthy examples, from bags to shoes and scarves
-
Debuts, dandies, Demi Moore: 25 fashion moments that defined 2025 in style2025 was a watershed year in fashion. As selected by the Wallpaper* style team, here are the 25 moments that defined the zeitgeist
-
JW Anderson’s new London store is an inviting emporium of fashion, art and homewareThe idea of curation is at the heart of Jonathan Anderson’s refreshed vision for his eponymous label, one encapsulated in the new Sanchez Benton-designed store on Pimlico Road – a place where the designer’s passions and influences converge
-
These fashion books, all released in 2025, are the perfect gift for style fansChosen by the Wallpaper* style editors to inspire, intrigue and delight, these visually enticing tomes for your fashion library span from lush surveys on Loewe and Louis Vuitton to the rebellious style of Rick Owens and Jean Paul Gaultier
-
Matthieu Blazy takes to the New York subway for his joyful sophomore Chanel showAt the disused Bowery station in downtown Manhattan, Blazy channelled New York’s distinct energy for his first Métiers d’Art show – an astute balance of fantasy and reality
-
At its academy, Prada sets an agenda for the future: ‘Technology cannot replace the ability to work with your hands’Wallpaper* takes a trip to the Prada Group Academy in Scandicci, Tuscany, where Prada CEO Andrea Guerra and CMO Lorenzo Bertelli outline the future of Italian craft on the institution’s 25th anniversary
-
Ten pyjama shirts good enough to wear out of the bedroom and onto the streetFrom Prada to Dolce & Gabbana, designers have embraced the louche elegance of the pyjama shirt this season. Here, the Wallpaper* style team select ten of the best
-
Faux fur and shearling dominated the A/W 2025 runways – these ten pieces capture the material’s ‘raw glamour’Embrace the season’s twisted glamour with these arresting pieces in imitation fur and shearling, from Simone Rocha’s faux fur-covered Mary Janes to colourful-hued shearlings from Gucci, Alaïa and Jacquemus