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Hard and soft, sweet and sharp: Pre-Fall 2024’s most intriguing looks are defined by a play on texture, seeing clean lines and pin-sharp tailoring meet shaggy, enveloping fabrics and touches of romance, from knitted candy-pink bows to twisted leather flowers. Whether the crackled vinyl of a Sportmax jacket, Alaïa’s delicate twists of merino wool, or layers of faux fur, shearling and leather, these are pieces that call out to be touched (and, indeed, treasured).
Captured in a series of portraits by Milan-based photographer Mattia Parodi and Wallpaper* creative and fashion director Jason Hughes, Dutch model Renee Does wears the defining looks of the Pre-Fall 2024 collections – from Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello to Bottega Veneta, Chanel and Celine – backdropped by a textural collage of draped fabric, modernist furniture and concrete. The story was originally featured in the Design Directory July 2024 Issue of Wallpaper*, on international newsstands now.
Pre-Fall 2024: the defining looks of the season
Jacket, £675 (available maxmara.com); skirt, £310 (available maxmara.com), both by Sportmax. Earrings, £975, by Balenciaga (available mytheresa.com). Shoes, £730, by Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello (enquire at ysl.com). Tights, £26, by Falke (available falke.com). ‘Torrin’ fabric in Seal, £83 per m, by Villa Nova (available villanova.co.uk)
Jacket, £2,270 (available net-a-porter.com), earrings, £510 (available versace.com); gloves, £790 (available versace.com), all by Versace
Above, bodysuit; gloves, both price on request, by Alaïa (enquire at maison-alaia.com). ‘Locus Solus’ daybed, £7,000, by Gae Aulenti, for Poltronova, from Béton Brut (available betonbrut.co.uk)
Top, £6,615; earrings, £680; belt, £7,800; belt, £4,475, all by Chanel (enquire at chanel.com). Shoes, £595, by Manolo Blahnik (available manoloblahnik.com). Tights, £60, by Wolford (available falke.com). Steel back chair, £820, from Monument (available monumentstore.co.uk)
Above, blouse, £1,100, by Celine Plein Soleil by Hedi Slimane, from Selfridges (enquire at selfrid(oblahnik.com). Underwear, £80; tights, £45, both by Wolford (available wolford.com) ‘Celino’ fabric in Mango, £125 per m, by Romo (available grahamsandersinteriors.com)
Dress, €950 (enquire at balenciaga.com); sunglasses, £350 (available balenciaga.com); earrings, £975, (available mytheresa.com), all by Balenciaga. ‘Torrin’ fabric in Seal, £83 per m, by Villa Nova (available villanova.co.uk)
Coat, price on request, by Bottega Veneta (enquire at bottegaveneta.com). Shoes, £595, by Manolo Blahnik (available manoloblahnik.com). Tights, £26, by Falke (available falke.com). Wooden screen, £3,200, from Béton Brut (available betonbrut.co.uk)
Opposite, jacket, £1,250, by Victoria Beckham (enquire at victoriabeckham.com). Earrings, £680, by Chanel (enquire at chanel.com). Belt (worn as necklace), price on request, by Sportmax (enquire at maxmara.com). Tights, £55, by Wolford Steel back chair, £820, from Monument (available monumentstore.co.uk)
Coat, £3,860, by Ferragamo (enquire at ferragamo.com). Shoes, £730, by Saint Laurent by Anthony Vaccarello (enquire at ysl.com). Gloves, £316, by Paula Rowan (enquire at paularowan.com) Tights, £55, by Wolford (available wolford.com). ‘Celino’ fabric in Mango and S0ya, £125 per m each, by Romo (available grahamsandersinteriors.com)
Coat, price on request, by Numeroventuno by Alessandro Dell’Acqua (enquire at numeroventuno.com) Earrings, £975, by Balenciaga (available mytheresa.com). Gloves, £316, by Paula Rowan (enquire at paularowan.com) ‘Locus Solus’ daybed, £7,000, by Gae Aulenti, for Poltronova, from Béton Brut (available betonbrut.co.uk)
Model: Renée Does at Viva London. Casting: Ikki Casting at WSM. Hair: Tomi Roppongi at Julian Watson Agency using Bumble and Bumble. Make-up: Faye Bluff at Of Substance Agency using Byredo. Set design: Stilema Studio at Tristan Godefroy. Interiors: Olly Mason. Photography assistants: Pablo Gallegos, Tom Green. Fashion assistant: Samela Gjozi. Interiors assistant: Ady Huq. Digi tech: Jess Segal/
A version of this article appears in the July 2024 Design Directory issue of Wallpaper*, available in print on newsstands, on the Wallpaper* app on Apple iOS, and to subscribers of Apple News +. Subscribe to Wallpaper* today.