For over 12 years, legendary make-up artist Peter Philips has overseen every aspect of beauty at Dior, from the design of its bestselling beauty products to the creative direction of its campaigns and, six times a year, the make-up for its runway shows. The brand’s latest collection, its S/S 2027 show, was a study in lightness, with Dior creative director Jonathan Anderson using delicate, dynamic fabrics and silhouettes to explore how garments transform when they interact with air.
To create a complementary make-up look for these designs, Philips started, as always, by having a conversation with Anderson. ‘It is a kind of open [conversation],’ he says. ‘And then I work with the hairdresser, manicurist and me to propose some looks, show it on models and then decide.’
For this collection, ‘Jonathan wanted a natural look with a surprise element, something subtle,’ explains Philips. So, we went for two variations of eyeliner in silver. One look was a skinny silver metallic eyeliner and the other was a chunky silver glitter eyeliner wing.’
To create the look, Philips placed a premium on creating healthy-looking skin on each of the models, prepping them with the Dior Capture skincare routine and adding Dior Forever Skin Veil primer. For face, Philips used the Dior Forever Skin Glow Foundation, in which he blended a hint of blush using the Dior Backstage Rosy Glow stick in Rosewood, Toffee or Berry, depending on the skin tone.
He then gently powdered the T-zone with the new Dior Forever On Set Powder, and added a bit of Dior Backstage Glassy Glow Stick in Glossy Jelly on the high points of the face. Finally, eyebrows were naturally groomed and lips given a hydrated plumpness with the Dior Addict Lip Maximiser in 001 Pink. On top of this clean, healthy look, Philips added one of the two silver eye makeup styles.
As always with a runway show, the biggest challenge is time. ‘We have to come up with a look literally just before the actual show, so that’s always exciting. On the day of the show, the look is briefed to my team, so they can execute the look or looks and customise it according to the model’s face shape and skin tone,’ Philips says. ‘Making sure that the designer is happy is the goal, and when that’s the case, that’s where I get the most enjoyment from.’
For Philips, the runway is also a time for him to think differently than he does the rest of the year. ‘When we create a look for the show, it is to complete or complement the vision of the designer. In my role as creative and image director for Dior Makeup, I have to consider a broader approach too,’ he says.
‘I create products not only for women who are passionate about fashion. Not every woman wants to be in the latest fashion, but every woman wants to be beautiful. So, from that perspective I can say that the Dior woman is a multi-faceted one, she’s confident and knows that she’s worthy of the best. She can go for a simple, natural look or for a full game, she owns her beauty.’
