Giorgio Armani celebrates the sensual, timeless photography of Aldo Fallai
Giorgio Armani hosts a new exhibition at Milan’s Armani/Silos, celebrating three decades of the eponymous designer’s collaboration with photographer Aldo Fallai, which was marked by a focus on the liberated body
When Giorgio Armani emerged to prominence in 1970s Italy, he proposed a new way of dressing. It was epitomised by his riff on the suit jacket: stripping away its previously rigid structure and synonymy with stuffy formality, his take was defined by a languid elegance, unstructured in design and made to release the body from restriction. Such a philosophy has followed him throughout his career, across both his eponymous label and its various offshoots, including Emporio Armani. ‘It gives presence, stature and dignity,’ he told Wallpaper* of the tailored jacket in a conversation with Paul Smith. ‘And it is one piece: you attain more with less.’
In Florentine photographer Aldo Fallai – who he met when Fallai was still a graphic designer in Milan in the early 1970s – Mr Armani would find a natural ally. In 1977, they worked together for the first time; the resulting collaboration, which would span three decades, saw them refine a vision, particularly of masculinity, which was both widely influential and decidedly Armani. Rigorous in composition, yet imbued with a feeling of sensuality – often the images would celebrate the beauty of the human form – the photographs they produced together continue to define the spirit of the house today.
And now, in Mr Armani’s Milanese hub and exhibition space, Armani/Silos, the designer pays ode to Fallai with a monographic exhibition of the photographer’s work, spanning 1977-2021 (until 11 August 2024). Curated by Mr Armani, his sister Rosanna Armani and Leo Dell’Orco, head of men’s collections, the wide-ranging exhibition celebrates what the designer calls an ‘artistic dialogue’, one largely led by an instinctual connection between the pair. Said to have been inspired by a melange of influences – from Tuscan mannerism and Caravaggio’s chiaroscuro to the pre-Raphaelites – Fallai’s evocative subjects include a man grasping a tiger cub under his arm (photographed in a circus in Palermo), couples in embrace or amid ruffled bedsheets, or model Antonia Dell’Atte playing a career woman on the Milanese street of Via Durini for a campaign in the 1980s.
‘Working with Aldo allowed me from the very beginning to transform the vision I had in my mind into real images: to communicate that my clothes were not just made in a certain way with certain colours and materials, but that they represented a way of life,’ says Mr Armani.
‘Because style, for me, is a total form of expression. Together, with a constant fluid and concrete dialogue, we created scenes of life, evoked atmospheres and sketched portraits full of character. Today, looking back at everything we did, I myself am struck by the power that these shots still emanate, and by Aldo’s great ability to capture the nuances of personality.’
‘My work with Giorgio was the result of a natural, continuous dialogue and great trust on his part,’ adds Fallai. ‘I have vivid memories of our 30-year collaboration. Production was always agile and streamlined: we achieved the results with little means and no special effects. This, I think, appealed to the public.’
Aldo Fallai per Giorgio Armani, 1977-2021, open now until 11 August 2024.
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Jack Moss is the Fashion Features Editor at Wallpaper*, joining the team in 2022. Having previously been the digital features editor at AnOther and digital editor at 10 and 10 Men magazines, he has also contributed to titles including i-D, Dazed, 10 Magazine, Mr Porter’s The Journal and more, while also featuring in Dazed: 32 Years Confused: The Covers, published by Rizzoli. He is particularly interested in the moments when fashion intersects with other creative disciplines – notably art and design – as well as championing a new generation of international talent and reporting from international fashion weeks. Across his career, he has interviewed the fashion industry’s leading figures, including Rick Owens, Pieter Mulier, Jonathan Anderson, Grace Wales Bonner, Christian Lacroix, Kate Moss and Manolo Blahnik.
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