For London-based recipe developer and writer Ranie Saidi, hosting is an act of generosity. It creates a moment where people can step away from everyday life to gather, celebrate, and connect – an ethos Saidi weaves into his debut cookbook, The Malay Cook.
The book – and much of Saidi’s culinary identity – is inspired by his grandmother, Che Aminah. A Malay village cook who ran a wedding catering business in Malaysia, Aminah taught Saidi the nuances of traditional Malay cooking by her side. When she passed away in 2011, her handwritten recipe book was stolen, leaving Saidi with only memories of her dishes.
'The Malay Cook' by Ranie Saidi
When Saidi moved to London to continue his studies, he began recreating her dishes from memory, eventually sharing them through supper clubs. 'I started hosting supper clubs as a way of sharing my grandmother’s cooking,' Saidi explains. 'After she passed away, cooking became part of how I processed my grief. The kitchen is where I feel closest to her.'
The move to London initially left Saidi feeling unsure of where he belonged, but cooking became a way for him to express himself. 'Hosting supper clubs grew out of that feeling. Over time it became a ritual,' he reflects. 'I began sharing dishes that are rare to find here in the UK. In many ways, it is my way of reclaiming my identity while also celebrating the life I have grown here.'
Much like his supper clubs, which emphasise aesthetics and meaningful details, Saidi’s cookbook is a visual and emotional tribute. His grandmother loved flowers, which is why they remain a focal point of his dinner events. 'They feel like a way of bringing her spirit into the room whenever I host,' he notes.
Building on the success of his sell-out supper clubs and Malay sauces, the book serves as a tangible ode to Che Aminah. Though Malays are Malaysia’s majority, their everyday dishes are little known internationally. In his Southeast London kitchen, Saidi has mapped the Malay palate using locally available substitutes. The book dives into the importance of flavours and ingredients – from everyday spices and pastes to traditional recipes adapted for the modern home cook.
Saidi’s favourite dish is his grandmother’s 'matrimonial chicken.' 'It’s my ultimate comfort food – my "death row" meal,' says the writer. 'There’s nothing fancy about it, but this was what she was best known for during her years catering Malay weddings. The dish is made with chilli, onion, ginger, coconut milk, and yes, ketchup.' The secret, he insists, is all in the balance: 'In one mouthful, you get sweet caramelised onions, tangy tomato, gentle heat, and the warm fragrance of ginger, all wrapped in creamy coconut milk.'
Abundance is at the heart of Malay cooking. For Saidi, it is about sharing, not just food but the stories behind. 'Compiling these recipes has been deeply personal,' he tells Wallpaper*. 'My grandmother’s recipe book was lost when she passed away, so I’ve had to piece everything together through taste memories and by talking with my aunts and my dad back in Malaysia. Every dish carries a memory, and trying to recreate it here has been both a challenge and a joy.’
Beyond flavor, Saidi also addresses the practicalities of modern cooking, including sourcing ingredients in London while considering sustainability. 'Every recipe feels like a bridge, connecting my roots back home with the life I’m building in London.'
In The Malay Cook, Saidi also explores the cultural significance of coconut, explaining how to use its various forms for different dishes. 'For generations, it has shaped the way we cook, eat, and care for the people around us,' he says.
Ultimately, the most important message is that cooking through kindness is intrinsic to Malay culture. 'Feeding people is a natural gesture of care and hospitality,' Saidi concludes. 'I hope people will remember this instinct to welcome and nourish through food.'
The Malay Cook by Ranie Saidi is £25.00, and available to purchase at Amazon and Waterstones