Nyonya kuih are gorgeous, jewel-like cakes and snacks that you will find in Southeast Asia. ‘Nyonya’ refers to the fusion of Chinese and Malay cultures that began to develop centuries ago when Chinese immigrants settled in Malacca, Penang, and Singapore. They applied their culinary skills to the local produce and ‘Kuih’ are the delectable delicacies they created, using ingredients such as sticky rice, tapioca, palm sugar, and coconut milk. The kuih are scented with pandan leaves, and often served on vivid green pieces of banana leaf. There are numerous forms and varieties of Kuih, both sweet and savoury, with distinctive shapes and textures, and unique flavours.
These beauties were made for Wallpaper* by The Pandan Bakery: a small, family affair based in London, and run by the Robinson family. Ling Robinson is from Seremban in Malaysia and came to the UK as student nurse. She is a talented home cook and used her skills and knowledge of Nyonya cooking to make kuih for family and friends who couldn’t find the real thing in London. In 2014, Ling, Valence, and their daughter Tamsin Robinson started making kuih more seriously and selling them, freshly made, in small batches. In 2016 they launched the Pandan Bakery and once a fortnight they set up their stall at Putney or Battersea Power Station Sunday markets – rotating different varieties of kuih month by month.
Try the striped Kuih Lapis, which is best eaten by peeling apart the squashy layers made of steamed coconut milk and tapioca flour. Seri Muka is a mouthwatering layer of pandan-flavoured custard atop a layer of glutinous rice. Ang Ku Kuih translates as ‘Red Tortoise Cake’, with a chewy, glutinous rice shell filled with mung bean or peanut paste (these are must-haves at Chinese New Year celebrations, as the bright red colour is associated with wealth and prosperity).
Many of Pandan Bakery’s patrons are Malaysians and Singaporeans longing for a true taste of home, and often travelling far and wide to get hold of it. There are also curious first-time customers looking to try something different. Attracted by the fragrance of pandan leaves and the vibrant colours, they are pleasantly surprised by the delicacy and complexity of the flavours, and inevitably come back for more.
You have to get these kuih while you can. They sell out fast and when they’re gone they’re gone. Happily, you can also order them online for delivery (they are hot property at Malaysian festivals and special occasions). Thanks to the Pandan Bakery, there is no need to travel all the way to Southeast Asia to taste authentic kuih and experience a delicious part of Nyonya culture.
