Another city, another show, another tour-de-force by Dries Van Noten, which took place last night in Paris. Taking Van Noten’s ‘pinch of punk’ theme as a starting point, Etienne Russo once again worked his magic and orchestrated a show based around portability.
The models carried X-Mini II Capsule speakers in their hands, carrying the soundtrack with them as they toured the catwalk. A line of men operated spotlights from behind the single row of audience, aiming and turning their individual lights on the models as they walked past.
Dries’ inspiration for the music came from the bane of the urban commuter – kids playing their music out loud on public transport, the modern day ‘pinch of punk’ that we’re all accustomed to. And the soundtrack was just the sort of tunes you'd hear at the back of the bus: Crystallized by The XX, Candy Shop by 50 Cent and Sing It Back by Moloko.
Of course the experience was infinitely more pleasurable than a rabble of rowdy youths throwing insults and chips. Tailored jackets, military dressage and elegant but casual structures made for a chic but relaxed collection. And Russo’s production, as we should know by now to expect as standard, was slick as could possibly be.