Chaumet is inspired by the fluidity of a breaking wave in the new high jewellery collection, ‘Déferlante’, which rethinks eight signature pieces, from a transformable jewellery design to a tiara and a secret timepiece. Water has long been a source of inspiration for the maison, the energy of its movements particularly popular during the Belle Époque, when its fluid form became a common motif in high jewellery. In these new pieces, which are an extension to the ‘Torsade de Chaumet’ high jewellery collection, the undulating silhouette of a wave is drawn in white gold and diamonds. On the tiara, the lightness of the gems’ mountings brings an easy elegance to brilliant-cut and step-cut diamonds.
Chaumet Déferlante collection
‘Chaumet’s high jewellery codes are embedded with the notions of light, movement and nature. The water in the form of a wave showcases all three,’ says Chaumet CEO Jean-Marc Mansvelt. ‘Water is deeply rooted in Chaumet’s history. This idea is always repeated in our stories of fine jewellery to reinterpret themes that run through our history. Water has been [interpreted] in different forms through the years, the drop of water, frozen water, stalactites, the movement of water. And this time, we [approach] the theme by bringing in the idea of movement, like “Torsade”: the wave, the energy, the force, the life.’
Creating this sense of movement with diamonds was not without its challenges. Pieces appear entirely flexible: in a three-row necklace, diamonds tumble down the neckline as if they are drops of water; in an asymmetrical ring, a glistening wave motif crests around a central diamond. ‘The challenge of “Déferlante” was to show the irregularity of a wave while keeping the movement as fluid as possible,’ adds Mansvelt. ‘Our studio and atelier have decided to mix the diamond cuts, a large number of cuts – especially on the large pieces of the collection – and the varieties of their settings. This masterful work of sculpture allowed us to interpret the organised chaos of a wave and reinforced the idea of movement and the different planes.’
The variety of diamond cuts – brilliant, princess, emerald and baguette – and the juxtaposition of geometric forms brings the immobile to vivid life. Says Mensvelt: ‘These pieces have an energy, this force of the wave. A real paradox. Hence all this work on the diamond cuts – the presence in the background of the knife edge to give depth, the play of balances and imbalances, the play of solids and voids to reinforce the impression of suspension.’ §
