Charlotte Chesnais brings her distinctive sensuality to sculptural new jewellery

French jeweller Charlotte Chesnais’ aesthetic is synonymous with a stripped-back sensuality. Working in precious materials, she coaxes 18ct gold into soft shapes and curving forms that twist around the finger, neck or wrist. A master of minimalism, there is nothing superfluous about her jewellery, with each curl, flourish and wave carefully considered.

Chesnais has built on these principles with a new collection centred around four principles, meaningful to her personally. Originally creating the pieces for herself only, she has expanded upon the designs to form the new ‘Joaillerie’ collection.

‘This creative process was, in many ways, both similar and different to my usual way of working,’ says Chesnais. ‘It involved a lot of volume research: wrapping, coiling around the hands and ears, while staying close to the spirit that’s defined the brand from the beginning. We wanted the pieces to feel immediately recognisable, to carry that signature. But there was also this huge constraint: the metal we worked with, 18ct gold. It pushed us creatively. [The results are] more stripped back, more introspective, but just as creative.’

The collection is divided into four themes: Round Trip, a reinterpretation of her classic gold sculptural curves; Serti Sculpte, which utilises the brand’s thread motif; Wave, where fluid pearls take centre stage; and Twin, created by Chesnais during her pregnancy with twins. ‘I never thought I’d fall for pearls the way I did,’ she adds. ‘But meeting a truly passionate pearl expert just swept me away. It’s wild to think the sea produces something like this. Even with human intervention, there’s something deeply fascinating about the way we perceive pearls. They're strangely moving, more than I ever expected.’

She affords a similar respect to diamonds, using them to outline golden silhouettes or placing them at the centre of a design. ‘With diamonds, it’s all about the brilliance. It’s like wearing a shard of light, a tiny piece of sun. I chose natural diamonds because I think there’s something dreamlike in that idea. Lab-grown diamonds, though more accepted now, feel a bit more… manufactured, less poetic. I work with responsible diamantaires, and for me, the natural diamond is still part of a story that feels magical.’

Throughout, jewellery stays faithful to Chesnais’ distinctive sensuality, which imbues works with a strong identity. They look as good resting on the dressing table before a night out as when worn. ‘There’s always this tension I explore, between the piece being worn and simply existing on its own,’ acknowledges Chesnais. ‘It has to feel good, sit right. The curve, the comfort, the ergonomics. The piece needs to be compelling at every scale.’

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