Gallery gems: all the art jewellery highlights from London's PAD
‘I visited PAD London last year’, says Lee Siegelson, president of New York jewellery gallery Siegelson, ‘and could immediately see the fair was about really strong design. Particularly with the furniture – the aesthetic is old but also new, and so our jewellery is a great fit’.
Exhibiting at PAD for the first time (this year is the fair's 9th edition), it’s clear to see exactly what he means. His curation of important jewels from the 20th century epitomises the boldest, most unapologetic design, often showcasing the most archetypal examples of a genre, like a bracelet in the Egyptian style by Cartier, or a strikingly graphic citrine and yellow gold necklace and bracelet suite, that Siegelson describes as ‘bold and bad and strong’.
Another necklace designed by Fulco, Duke of Verdura, and owned by Cole Porter’s wife Linda Lee Thomas, is set to mimic a belt around the neck, it’s sky-blue aquamarines tipped with rubies, the colour combination and composition wholeheartedly modern, despite being over 70 years old. ‘In my opinion this is one of the greatest pieces of 20th century jewellery,' Siegelson goes on, ‘everything about it points to this – the colours, composition, designer and provenance combine in an overall piece that represents everything we look for in a jewel.'
Highlights of the edit Siegelson has brought to London are too numerous to mention although a small collection of silver pieces by sculptor Alexander Calder that date from around 1940 are of surprising interest. Previously owned by Nelson A Rockerfeller, the relatively humble material may be out of step with the impressive stones on display, but the sculptural qualities and exacting but simple design make them a worthy and relevant inclusion both within the context of Siegelson and of PAD itself.
It seems fitting also that another sculptor, the contemporary artist Nic Fiddian-Green, should debut a small equine gem collection on the stand of Louisa Guinness, the gallerist who specialises in artists who can turn their hand to jewellery design. Known for his epic horse sculptures, that are monumental and yet serene, (his bronze at Marble Arch, London is 12m tall) the translation into wearable pendants, brooches and cufflinks sees Fiddian-Green explore techniques new to him – such as hand carving semi-precious stones from single blocks and casting in gold and silver. The difference in scale is immediately striking but he manages to imbue the pieces with the same tactile calm that pervades his large-scale work, reinforcing the adage that successful jewellery is and should be wearable sculpture.
Wallpaper* Newsletter
Receive our daily digest of inspiration, escapism and design stories from around the world direct to your inbox.
-
20 years of Dover Street Market’s transporting in-store installations, from giant elephants to soft toys
As Dover Street Market, Rei Kawakubo and Adrian Joffe’s radical London concept store, celebrates its 20th anniversary, we look back at ten of its most colourful installations, crafted alongside Simone Rocha, Jonathan Anderson, Martin Parr and more
By Orla Brennan Published
-
Antoni Gaudí: a guide to the architect’s magical world
Catalan creative Antoni Gaudí has been a unique figure in global architectural history; we delve into the magical world of his mesmerising creations
By Ellie Stathaki Published
-
The TCL 50 Pro NXTPAPER is a smartphone with a low price, a svelte screen and a sinister side
TCL is a lesser-known titan of consumer technology. Its new NXTPAPER tech makes for a neat multifunctional smartphone. But what’s the catch?
By Jonathan Bell Published
-
As London’s V&A spotlights Mughal-era design, Santi Jewels tells of its enduring relevance
‘The Great Mughals: Art, Architecture and Opulence’ is about to open at London’s V&A. Here, Mughal jewellery expert and Santi Jewels founder Krishna Choudhary tells us of the influence the dynasty holds today
By Hannah Silver Published
-
Discover the fantastical jewellery world of Castro NYC in London
Carpenters Workshop Jewellery celebrates the work of Castro NYC with a London exhibition
By Hannah Silver Published
-
Art takes London: Tiffany & Co, Damien Hirst and artists take over Selfridges' windows
Four British contemporary artists celebrate Tiffany & Co's pioneering history with a series of storied window displays
By Anne Soward Published
-
Self-Portrait launches first jewellery collection
Self-Portrait rethinks traditional motifs in its first jewellery collection, turning the feminine flounces of the bow into chic, contemporary pieces
By Hannah Silver Published
-
Seiko shines a light on conceptual Japanese watch design
Seiko’s Power Design Project 2024 at Japan House London explores watchmaking potential with seven ‘incredibly specialised watches’
By James Gurney Published
-
Van Cleef & Arpels' immersive London exhibition takes visitors inside the watchmaking world
Van Cleef & Arpels’ exhibition, ‘Poetry of Time’, at South Kensington’s Cromwell Place gallery, traces the early days of the maison
By Hannah Silver Published
-
Michèle Lamy and Loree Rodkin’s zodiac jewellery is on show at Carpenters Workshop Gallery
Michèle Lamy and Loree Rodkin’s zodiac jewellery, ‘HunRod Gold’, is at Carpenters Workshop Gallery, London, alongside furniture by Rick Owens
By Hannah Silver Published
-
Bulgari welcomes BAFTA 2024 with a London show of its era-spanning film-star jewellery
For BAFTA 2024, Bulgari spotlights its rich cinematic connections in a jewellery exhibition at its Bond Street store
By Caragh McKay Published