Seb Brown rethinks the signet ring at Dover Street Market Paris

Historical and contemporary unite in Seb Brown's offbeat signet rings

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signet rings
Seb Brown's signet rings are available at Dover Street Market, priced from £475
(Image credit: Seb Brown)

‘The signet ring is a great canvas for gemstones, it faces up really nicely and allows me to play with infinite graphic layouts,’ says Australian jewellery designer Seb Brown. ‘I like to turn the historical aspect on its head and give the signet an inverted meaning. I was trained in graphic design so the basic design elements; form, texture, layout, colour are very important to the success of each piece. I like to play with scales; a tiny stone on a large ring.’

Since forming his eponymous brand in 2009, Brown has honed a dedication to tradition. He draws on heritage techniques, including carving directly into wax and crafting each piece by hand, in a celebration of history. His jewellery, though, with its pops of colour and unexpected design edge, is resolutely modern.

Brown has headquarters in Melbourne but is based in Paris, where his jewellery has just launched at Dover Street Market. His second studio is also located in the city, giving him a space to craft and consider new work. ‘I’m constantly refining my ring shapes, working on new pieces and organising a series of trunk shows throughout the year,’ Brown adds. ‘With the rise in gold prices, we’re making a lot more pieces in platinum, it’s been exciting exploring a new material.’

In Brown’s signature stone setting, gemstones sink into metal, as sparkly as fireworks. ‘Bead setting is an ancient stone setting technique which uses a small ‘bead’ of metal to hold the stone in place; it also adds an element of texture to the face of the ring,’ explains Brown, on how he achieves the graphic effect. ‘The challenge is to keep the piece feeling not overworked, a nuanced setting which highlights the lustre of the gold and the sparkle of the gems. My Melbourne team is trained to set the stones to my exacting standards; everything is hand-made to order.’

Inspired by the past, natural forms and museum artefacts, Brown is focused on the long game. ‘My aesthetic is a light touch and an ancient feeling. I want the wearer to think about their place in history.’

Hannah Silver
Hannah Silver

Hannah Silver is a writer and editor with over 20 years of experience in journalism, spanning national newspapers and independent magazines. Currently Art, Culture, Watches & Jewellery Editor of Wallpaper*, she has overseen offbeat art trends and conducted in-depth profiles for print and digital, as well as writing and commissioning extensively across the worlds of culture and luxury since joining in 2019.