To contemplate the sculptures she creates is to gain a greater understanding of Ana Khouri’s left-of-centre, yet classic-leaning jewellery designs.
Both jewellery and sculpture design are the creative impulses that drive Khouri. This week, Jewels as Art, an exhibition at Phillips, London, spanning five years of her work, artfully displays the fact. With both jewels and sculptural pieces on show, the exhibition fuses together these two inextricable facets of her work.
Khouri’s first foray into jewellery creation grew from experiments at art school, where she hung sculptures onto naked bodies. The process transformed into jewellery design. It may be her preferred medium now, but for Khouri the techniques and traditions of jewellery design are secondary to what she is creating: she remains preoccupied with the luminous feeling that a piece of sculpture, or jewellery, can impart: ‘I want to communicate that this is something so fundamental to life but so often muted by distractions – the everyday interconnectedness of life.’
The Phillips outing reveals her signature design details: diamonds are set off centre, ring curves aren’t smooth but distorted.
As such, unfettered by the conventional, Khouri’s jewels take on a life of their own. She is preoccupied with exploring the ways a jewel takes shape on the body of the wearer rather than as a piece of adornment in its own right. ‘I want my designs to evoke their connection to space; its vastness, its majesty and its superlative form,’ she says.
Left, Missy, 2018, in iron. Right, Missy ear piece in blue tourmaline paraiba, sapphire and diamonds
Left, Aine, 2014, in iron. Right, Athena, 2018, in gold leaf aluminium
INFORMATION
’Ana Khouri: Jewels as Art’, 17-19 September, Phillips. anakhouri.com
ADDRESS
Phillips
30 Berkely Square
London
-
Out of office: the Wallpaper* editors’ picks of the weekWhile a few of our editors were in Europe for various showcases and launches, others stayed local, uncovering new cuisines, eccentric exhibitions and glorious gardens this side of the Channel
-
Discover this sleek-but-warm sanctuary in the heart of the Wyoming wildsThis glorious wood-and-stone residence never misses a chance to show off the stirring landscape it calls home
-
Mondrian makes waves at Burleigh Heads with a striking Australian debutMondrian Gold Coast emerges as a sculptural new anchor for Burleigh Heads, pairing surf-side glamour with global polish
-
All eyes on Greek jewellery brand Lito as it launches bold new amulets to mark its 25 yearsStriking amulets, seductive stones and secret messages characterise Lito's striking new anniversary collection, an extension of its ‘Tu es Partout’ series
-
The best layering necklaces for an elevated yet casual lookHow to mix, match and stack jewellery for the ultimate high-energy, low-effort style
-
Tom Brady’s watch collection is for sale at Sotheby’s: here are the highlights‘The GOAT Collection: Watches & Treasures from Tom Brady’ goes on sale at Sotheby’s New York on 10 December
-
Art takes London: Tiffany & Co, Damien Hirst and artists take over Selfridges' windowsFour British contemporary artists celebrate Tiffany & Co's pioneering history with a series of storied window displays
-
Late summer jewels: what to wear at Golden HourLate summer signals a jewellery style-shift. These independent designers have got it covered
-
All smiles: How a grillz jewellery making class in London became an international hitWhat started as a passion project quickly exploded in popularity. We get the story behind the grillz-making workshop at Cockpit London
-
Sotheby’s vintage watch sale of 24 spectacular avant-garde designs sells out in one hourPatek Philppe's crazy-paved cuff and Audemars Piguet's emerald car are the star lots, pointing towards a new era of idiosyncratic opulence in watch design
-
Emerging jewellery designers to get to knowThese independent, new and emerging jewellery designers and brands from New York to Paris are firmly on our radar
