Culminating its decade-long journey into America's culinary elite, Chicago recently welcomed Trenchermen, a restored 1920s Turkish bathhouse in arty Wicker Park. The revamped space takes on a clean, classic feel, well considered in every way by designer and co-owner Kevin Heisner. He restored the original fixtures and industrial elements and introduced rich, warm materials. But there are a few unexpected surprises - like hand-painted floor tiles that would be more at home in a South American cantina than this gentrifying Chicago neighbourhood. Heisner and his brother Matt partnered with brother chefs Mike and Pat Sheerin for the launch (the name refers to a person who enjoys food and eats heartily). Mike Sheerin's cred comes from tutelage under Paul Khan at Blackbird, where he was recognised nationally as chef de cuisine. At Trencherman he's already being celebrated for his creative use of local, Midwestern ingredients and progressive 'new American' menu. Sophisticated but not suffocating.